Quinton Hazell inner and outer track rods arrived today, will get these fitted tonight and will be the front sub frame and suspension finished.
these were a bit tricky to track down in QH but worth the effort I think.
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Quinton Hazell inner and outer track rods arrived today, will get these fitted tonight and will be the front sub frame and suspension finished.
these were a bit tricky to track down in QH but worth the effort I think.
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all finished and on the trolley, set aside for install at a later stage, pretty happy with the end result.
Lessons learned?
I would not go with powder coating again.
• Media blasted
• Lower wish bones reinforced
• 2 pack rust killer primer
• Powder coated satin black
• Full poly bush kit
• Springs reset and powder coated
• Poly seats for springs
• Poly short bump stops
• New ball joints
• New track rods & ends
• All new high tensile nuts bolts & washers
• Audi 80 front vented disc conversion
• Opel Vectra / Calibra 16V calipers fitted with new seals and pads
• New front wheel bearings
And many hours of work in my little shed
Amazing proyect, congratulations.
interesting reading.
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The work is beyond superb - no single factor - just an overall impression that everything is done right and to highest quality...
Anyway - why don't you like powder coating - I know people who swear by it and some who actually work in the industry - however I am not a big fan myself and cannot quite put my finger exacly on why?
thanks for the posting and positive feedback.
yes I am pretty happy with the end result but would not do the powder coating thing on an assembly like this again, mainly due to its tenancy to chip during reassembly. there were a couple of bits that took a small knock (metal on metal) while putting the bushes in and I was very annoyed at myself initially for being careless, touching up is difficult and it stands out as a chip, whereas paint could have been rubbed down and gone over properly.
I have powder coated the seat rails, rail mounts and foot pedals they have come up great and doubt they will see any damage but for the sub frame / suspension I would not do again, could be the powder coat process was not quite right but that's just my experience and I would not go there again, but it does look nice in satin black I must say and anyone that's seen it in real life has gone ....oooo....aaaa....
I agree with you totally regarding chipping aspect - we use large powder coated sheet at work and they seem to have very little resitance to scratcing as well. The trouble is that enamel paints like Hammerite are also quite prone to chipping.
I remember a few years ago that some guys in the restoration business started using polyurethane household paints on suspension parts etc. as it was more flexible so less likely to chip and just as resistant to wear and tear.
here is a aluminium step off a brand new truck imported into NZ, these get removed by the NZ supplier on units being modified to twin steer and come handed.
plan is to cut this up and fold to make a combined floor tray / navigators foot rest for passenger side and flat floor tray with clutch foot rest fro drivers side
bolt through the floor with nice stainless steel allen key bolts with rubber grommets between floor and tray to keep the plate clear of the steel floor pan and provide a gap for pipes and wires to run between.
this is a task for a bit further down the track, will be interesting to see how it goes
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got my COSCAST head back today, here are some pics showing the bronze valve guides.
work done
head acid dipped
crack tested
cast iron valve guides removed
warm fit 13.05mm over sized bronze guides (QED supplied) & ream to suit new valves
cut valve seats to suit new valves and vacuum test.
heater hose connection replaced with new GM part
core plugs replaced with new GM parts
head skimmed
chase spark plug threads to clear
remove 1 x broken stud
head acid dipped & washed following machining
new exhaust flange studs (to fit)
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new hydraulic lifters / cam followers to fit
new studs to fit
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funny you mention it I am talking with a specialist coating supplier at the moment as I want to use a two pack urethane / epoxy paint system to do the entire inner floor pan, base coat will give me a dimple effect and then a top coat with a urethane glaze tinted polar white to match he final car colour, watch this space...
Fantastic thread and project!
Still aghast at how you managed to find such a rust free manta to start with![]()
Never take life seriously. Nobody gets out alive, anyway.
today's progress putting the head back together. the head is on stands to prevent the open valves getting damaged.
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great progress![]()
SBD cam cover breather modification
SBD Motorsport - 16v Vauxhall tuning
Removal of the small cam cover breather hose connection using a hinge pin removal tool, the hole will be blanked off with a nut and bolt.
Cam covers now off to be put through a commercial parts washer prior to being paint stripped ready for high temperature coating by HPC
> Superior Appearance Coatings
custom made Delrin engine mount bobbins and Delrin gear shift knob
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Nice read...keep it coming dude.
Welcome to the jungle we've got fun and games.
ARP bolts arrived today from USA
C20XE ARP head stud kit ARP Part Num 209-4301
C20XE ARP rod bolt kit (Pro Series) ARP Part Num 209-6003
C20XE ARP flywheel Bolt kit ARP Part Num 209-2801
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will be interesting to see how this looks on the roof of the Manta
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finally got round to tapping out the cam cover to blank off the breather pipe connection not needed when running carbs.
Rather than use a nut and bolt I drilled out to 6.5mm then tapped out M8x1.25 used stainless steel dome head alan key bolts with thread lock
these can now go to be blasted and HCP coated, the coating will go over the bolt head.
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my engine is still with the engine builder, should get it back next week now that this has arrived from the UK
one serious head gasket, I can see now why the cost so much.
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20XE short block back from engine builder today.
Block acid cleaned & crack tested
Core Plugs Replaced
Rebore Block to 87 dia
Polish Crank
Hone Tunnels
Plug Crank Sensor opening in block with core plug machined to suit (see last picture)
Machine con rods for ARP bolts
New Main Bearings
New Conrod Bearings
FORGED PISTONS, ACCRALITE, FLAT TOP
Lighten Flywheel
Set up and Balance Complete Engine
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just about there, should get the rocker cover and belt cover back from HPC this week
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the 120amp alternator I am using has a 10mm bolt hole, the standard alternator bushes are holed 8mm
easier to get some split bolt through bushes run up than try and find replacements (possibly Powerflex for Saab 900?)
anyway here is the plan, these are designed so there wont be a washed on the inner side of the bush between the alternator and the bush.
also sorted out a rose jointed adjustment bracket for the top mount, will post pics of that later
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Out of a Honda Integra I picked these up for around 200 quid your money then spent the day getting them clean, they have come up well, might need to replace the bolster foam at some stage tho.
amazing what a pressure washer, persil granules and a commercial wet vac can do
I am hoping they fit in the Manta, the shoulders look a bit wide but got to be worth buying as I am sure I could sell them now cleaned up and make a profit.
need to source the red materials for the rear seat if they do fit
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