I am thinking about buying some speakers and tweeters to go on the ol parcel shelf, but i was wondering how i would wire them up ?
Because i allready have an amp and a sub, so aslong as my memory doesnt fail me there may be a speaker output left on the amp. Also i can hook the speakers up to the origional wiring for the old rear speakers. But what about the tweeters ?
Do i have have to wire up another amp to power these ?
Or is there another way?
Cheers
What type of amp is it? Channel? etc?
Seems abit pointless IMO. Will be better if you upgrade your front speakers or fit some better ones in the rear quaters
Signature not as cool as Paul's
A few points seem to be eluding you mate...
This response could go on for pages & still achieve little or no understanding on your part due to the complexities involving active or passive running of components, (sub, mid, tweet)....
Passive running--- Driving components using an outboard crossover unit, (2 or more components per amp ch).... Two ch stereo amp will be sufficient to drive 2-way or 3-way components, crossover points will be determined by passive crossover supplied or fitted...
Quick pic
Active running--- Each amp ch driving one component.... Crossover points will need to be determined & set to match speakers & listeners tastes, issues can arise setup wise due to more complex matters... Not recommended for novices mate....
Quick pic
Suggest you have a read of the sticky relating to 'Audio Pointers' to get relevant info on the effects subs have on unprotected shelf mounted speakers....
A cars cabin is a small area, fitting an amp driven front end will negate the need for rear speakers... You want louder??? Go for power & good installation of front mids....
Hope this helps a little...
if it sounds right to you, then its right.
Cheers lads,
On reflection i think i will just upgrade fronts and backs, and exclude the whole 6x9 idea, my sub is by far powerful enough and so is my amp (1500watt each, the rms slips my mind).
So i think maybe a little amp behind the glove box in the front and power the two front speakers?, and then wire the back ones to the current old wiring ?
Amp will over heat in the glove box
Signature not as cool as Paul's
Hmmm yea could be a minor issue lol.... i have seen it done before, but you raise a good point.... Will have to look round the car to see if there is a suitable place to mount another amp..
cold air feed to the amp?? lmao
i really really want to mount a 2 channel under my dash but its bound to get suffocated and surrounded by hot air
Signature not as cool as Paul's
i got my amp under the passenger seat
My Frost Blue Corsa : http://www.migweb.co.uk/forums/proje...erm%2A%2A.html
thats a friggin awesome ideaOriginally Posted by daz1492
i got my amp under the passenger seat
got any pictars on how you've mounted it up???
Signature not as cool as Paul's
I thought about that, but with the movement of the seat going back and foward surely it will fudge the wires ?thats a friggin awesome idea
got any pictars on how you've mounted it up???
depends how you mount it TBF
Signature not as cool as Paul's
True true.... im finding it hard to see how you would mount it with no problems..... but all shall be answered when Daz answers.
I had an idea to mount one under the glove box, screwed into the glovebox bottom, with speakers in the kickpannels and a few in the centre consol.... but dunno if it would work.
a simple form of cross over network to couple a tweeter across the amp's main out put is to run it through a 2.2uF non-polarised capacitor, rated around 25-63Volts. whilst you could still add the base unit without a network, but this would mean the base unit being fed with low frequencies as well as highs and will just be wasting the HF output components of the amp and just heat up more and waste unnecessary power, whilst you must never drive a tweeter directly across the amp out without this simple cap in series as otherwise you are very likely to destroy your tweeter in seconds.
The base units are run through a hefty inductor (HF blocking choke) tuned to correspond the base units response
if it wasn't for the earth , there wouldn't be any universe, mother earth gave birth to all the creation! and without the earths gravitational pull, the sun and the moon would have long gone adrift!
...... whilst that made little to no sence to me mate.... thanks anyway
I guess it didn't, but don't get tempted to connect tweeters directly across the amp's output as they do blow up in seconds. Hence why it is essential to use a cross over network.
if it wasn't for the earth , there wouldn't be any universe, mother earth gave birth to all the creation! and without the earths gravitational pull, the sun and the moon would have long gone adrift!
Ahhh yea i get you know
Hmm i guessed that a tweeter woulds be able to hold that kinda of power, i dont think i will do the whole tweeter thing now, i think i will just upgrade the front and backs.
Re: Question about speakers and tweeters.
This is a really bad diagram but it should help explain it.
Basically i removed the passenger seat and the amp fits perfect in the middle of where the runners should be, i then drilled 4 holes that where in the same place as where the hole on the amp are through the floor and put a nut and bolt down through the holes and bolted it up under the car. under the left runner there is a gap perfect to run the wires up in to the trim - this way they dont get mashed up, so i ran them through that and up behind the glove box so that they are all hidden.
As the seat was out i roughed up the whole that the thread that the bolt that holds the seat goes down into and placed the earth wire there as the cable wasn't that long.
sorry if this doesnt explain it fully
if you got anymore questions just ask
Daz.
My Frost Blue Corsa : http://www.migweb.co.uk/forums/proje...erm%2A%2A.html
i ran better speaker wiring down the stock routes, and got a decent power headunit to pwoer front speakers and rear components. Rear components were set up passively using crossover boxes. The front speakers just ran straight from the head unit. ran the preout to the amp and just ran my sub off the amp. Was beautifully balanced sound frequency and good quality sound both quiet and loud.
i'm running vibe components in the rear quarters using a two channel vibe amp mounted under passenger seat, not had any problems to date... also running a vibe CBR active sub in the rear and so far dont have any door speakers in the front, my plan will be to fit a four channel amp and another set of matching components in the front, going on sound quality and volume i think it will be pretty unbeatable for the overall cost of about £700.
The trick to running compo's is they must be well powered... as most distortion is not distortion due to overpowering... but clipping due to under powering
Sounds good to me mate, is vibe any good? i have stuck with fusion myself, but people have said vibe are reasonable.
Speaker selection should be based on a number of points, the most important being value for money...
Reliability, build quality, tonal accuracy & personal preference should also figure highly in your choice...
It should also be pointed out that a speaker will only perform to its best if key points on installation are followed... It's very easy to fit £250 components & get them sounding average... But, correctly installed £90 components will easily out perform poorly installed expensive units...
Without any idea of proposed input power, musical preference or available budget I can't offer a worthwhile recommendation....
if it sounds right to you, then its right.
I'm one of those people that once i've found a good working brand i stick with them, and until my budget increases, i will stick with them. Can't fault themSounds good to me mate, is vibe any good? i have stuck with fusion myself, but people have said vibe are reasonable.
Amen! all my vibe gear is low to mid-end, and i know a lot of people who have spent a hell of a lot more... and they cant touch mine :-) (even with my 5 year old JVC head unit, which i bought second hand for £20 3 years ago)
Like I said, personal preference plays a huge part in the final selection....I'm one of those people that once i've found a good working brand i stick with them, and until my budget increases, i will stick with them. Can't fault them
Amen! all my vibe gear is low to mid-end, and i know a lot of people who have spent a hell of a lot more... and they cant touch mine :-) (even with my 5 year old JVC head unit, which i bought second hand for £20 3 years ago)
I wouldn't use Vibe or Fusion in my car because I know I can buy better for similar money....
The market that Vibe & Fusion seem to be aimed at would be young drivers who desire as much noise as possible.... Other brands will compete output wise & sound much better doing it....
But, having stated that, installation & setup is the key to success whichever brand you select....
I've tried a few different brands, I've also used various models from each brand & no single brand comes out a clear winner....
These Rainbows, SLX 265- deluxe , are the best all rounders so far...
My Head Unit is a 'Becker mexico pro'....
if it sounds right to you, then its right.
Enlighten me? what comes anywhere near Vibe specs in that price range that's tried and tested?
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