Right, I've decided that either this weekend or next i'm gonna strip the engine and then rebuild it. I want to be as prepared as possible so I'm after a list of tools and parts i'm gonna need in order to do the following.
1) Remove the Head to replace the Head Gasket.
2) As the head is removed do some headwork.
3) Replace those bloody noisy tappets.
4) Generate 500BHP!!!!! Ok I've woken up now!!!! just point 1 to 3 then.
as well as the standard socket set and screwdriver set you will need:
star socket set - you'll need these to remove the head bolts and crank bolt. head bolts are e12 or e14 and crank bolt is e20
12 spline bit - to remove the crank pulley wheel - i can't remember the size
spring compressors and the extention to remove the valves
you'll also want to replace the water pump and cam belt
I just finished mine last night! 10 hours strait putting the bloody thing back together but now it's running sweeeet. i just need to take it easy for a week (about 250miles for me) and im good to go.
god it's annoying not being able to boot it!
the 12 spline thingy is the same key that removes the input shaft. there's another 12 spline bolt on the cam belt cover, a bit smaller than the pulley bolts, though.
there's 2 types of head bolts, both torx. one needs a key, the other needs a socket. make sure you replace like with like.
a magnetic on an extendable thingyme wotsit is also very useful.
from your post, it sounds like you're gonna leave the bottom end alone. If you're not, you'll need
impact driver - oil pump screws.
micrometer - measuring big ends, to see if they're still round.
piston ring compresser - i dunno what you use that for, but i'm sure it'll come in handy
rehoning tool - if you aren't going for a rebore, then you may want to rehone the bores.
An engine stand makes the whole job much easier if you're gonna take the engine out.
you'll need loads of brake cleaner, for cleaning everything up.
If you're concerned about tappets, you can clean them, and it stops them tapping, you'll also want to sort out the oil feed for the tappets. there's a spring valve on the block to get the oil flow right, and this gets gummed up easily. if you need more datails let me know.
you'll need arp bolts, steel rods, and a solid & lightened valve train for 8000rpm+
only do this if you are deffo putting on throttle bodies and wild cams that'll actually give you some power up there - this means high compression - so new pistons. At this level of tune you must be careful to pay attention to detail and make sure everything is working 100% - no room for error or you'll come to grief
dare I quote the ubiquitous SBD site as a good guide for all things mentally tuned
www.sbdev.co.uk - go look through the taper throttle kits from 235bhp and above.
I hear what your saying Gary. My only though is that SBD say the TB kits they do won't fit the mk3 Cav (Which I have) due to the Brake Servo thingy. And that a bias pedal box is the only option. Whats involved in this both labour, parts and cost wise.
Animal has fitted TB's to his Calibra and i thought his engine bay was the same as mine but i ain't sure. Animal???
New pistons etc is starting to sound very pricey. Ani idea on costs?
if the cavalier issue with the taper throttle is the same as the mk2 astra they will fit - I took the plunge and had a go at fitting before resorting to a new pedal box or remote servo and found there was just enough space to cram it all in - and still allow the filter to go on and off (just).
Al & Animal have since fitted tapers to their GSi and Cally, resp - I know of tapers going on another mk2 as well - I think it's a fair bet that you'll be ok on your Cav.
SBD I think were just being over cautious - a pity since many people have probably opted for the parallels after reading SBDs site.
I would say though that you will be wise to reinforce or uprate your engine mounts, as the engine movement under load pushes no.1 ram even closer to the brake pipes.
machine mart do well priced & decent engine in/out thingies etc..
one tip - in the pic, the banjo nearest the ram is not needed - use the existing hardline and just put a tight bend on it as it comes out the mc - the extra few mm make life easier - plus it's a smooth surface so the filter won't snag on it does on the banjo bolt head.
that leaves just the regulator at the bottom to move - however assuming you have ABS that'll be somewhere else too - so you might get away with bending the line there, too, so no clever hoses to make up
happy spending, budget at least £5k for a complete kit of the spec you wanted