I'm preparing to get the sump off, just a few questions for the grease monkeyz here:
1. What's the best gasket in practice? The dual cork, rubber, or one from an 8V? Or something else?
2. It says here on TIS that you have to recut the threads, all of em. Is it true?
3. To remove the turbo oil feed line it has here operation "Support for Aux Aggregates, Remove & Install", now that's a pain in the @rse, is this *really* needed?
4. It mentions two kinds of sealing compounds. 1510177 is equivalent to Loctite blue, got this one
1503294 - what's this one? Any commercial substitute, or do I have to get the Vaux stuff? It's for the four joints.
5. Any gen, or gotchas? Something tells me that most people fall in the same traps, because these sumps typically leak no matter what
i always use some rtv sealant on the cork type gaskets and use to if it has a removeable baffle plate, otherwise they tend to leak, locktite on the thread for the bolts and dont do em up too tight, think you can get abetter quality cork gasket with torque limiting sleves around the bolt holes,
yeah, know what you mean, many yeers of leaky 8v sumps taught me that, but the rubber ones are alot better but require a routed channel in the sump, dont know if you can fit a later type sump if you want to use this type, which to be honest is preferable
Just put the cork one's on my cally T, you only put a small bit of sealer where the oil pump meet's the block, and the same on the other side where the alloy meet's the block(the bit wot holds the crankshaft oil seal)
> 1. What's the best gasket in practice? The dual cork, rubber, or one from an 8V? Or something else?
I've used cork (dual), but have yet to comment as the engine isn't in the car yet, so can't say if they are good or not (but I belive its down to fitment and torque of screws).
> 2. It says here on TIS that you have to recut the threads, all of em. Is it true?
I didn't do this, I tried all the screws first (once I cleaned the threads of bolt and hole with wire brush).
> 3. To remove the turbo oil feed line it has here operation
year I noticed this when I but the new pipe on, the K16 oil pipe runs along the bottom of the oil pump housing (by the crank pulley wheel) and hids 2 of the sump bolts! (the 2 long oneS). Unless you can push the oil pipe out of the way, your going to have to undo one end to get at the 2 bolts.
> 4. It mentions two kinds of sealing compounds
use thread lock on the sump bolts, any thing from local motor factors.
I then used 2 types of compond sealent, one is green liquid for the 4 joins on the bottom of the block face (rear end cap and oil pump housng) - 90 001 851 (though it seems EPC also quotes 90 485 251 at times).
The other is for the end cap, some people call this RVT sealant (90 485 251). But in your case you won't need it.