do i just pull off the old 1 and slide the new 1 on?
do i just pull off the old 1 and slide the new 1 on?
yup then check the timing marks are correct and check/adjust the tension
you can try but you wont get very far.
you need to line up all the timing marks, then take off alternator & pas belts, remove bottom pulley. now you can take off old belt but you will have to undo the adjuster roller to slacken the belt.
now put the new belt on and refit in reverse order above. once you have put the belt on turn the crank round to check that the timing marks still line up.
hope you know what you are doing!!!!
"new" Astra VXR
don't see many novas with pas
Jamie f has a how2 in his signature
It will be going/is in the members only bit when it goes live too
is the engine out the car still? if so do it before you put it in, if you want me to do it let me know and ill do it, takes about 20 mins to do if you have all the tools and the bottom pulley comes of ok
that would b great jamie!
i looked at ur post but u need 2 b a member of cav web and i'm not,
and no i dont know what i'm doing! i'm trying 2 lean as i go along
if r free jamie,wanna show me on friday?
so me and dan can put the engine in on sunday
well i hope
im only off this week mon,tues, wed, then im back to work till next week, here the how2 copied from notepad
this is pretty straight forward if you are compentent, and this guide should be used in conjunction with the lifter removal how 2.
tools required and parts required
new crankbolt x1(if removed)
crank pulley bolts x6
new pas and alternator belt(recommended)
new tensioners(if required, the early xe's are fitted with the much stronger all-metal rollers)
good socket set
good set of spanners
E20 female torx bit
cam locking tool(if you cannot find one just use a set of mole grips)
first remove the air box and trunking up to the AFM, slacken off alternator belt but the 13mm nut and bolt on the bracket, slacken the pas bolt via the 19mm nut on the threadded adjuster bar, remove the cambelt cover via the 3 bolts, once you have removed the cambelt cover you will have the the cambelt arrangement infront of you,(the one in the left of the pic)
You will need to time up the engine by turning it by hand to line up the tdc marks, on the cam pulleys there is a notch on each wheel and this should line up with the mark on the cam cover like so, but usally the bottom marker has slipped and is nowhere near the mark so you will need to remove spark plug no.1 and insert a long screwdriver/dowling, to get the tdc, the way to do this is to turn the engine and when the dowl is at the upper most stroke this is the TDC.
you will either need to remove the bottom pully by the 6 allen/torx bolts at the bottom, usally the 6 bolts are rusted in place and need a good soaking in WD-40, if you cannot get them off you will need to remove the pulley completely by locking off the engine and undoing the E20 torx bolt.
once undone you will need to slacken off the belt, you do this by undoing the 6mm allen bolt in the center on the left hand tensioner as in this pic
but before you slacken off the belt, lock the cams in place with the locking tool/molegrips
once that is undone the blet will become loose and will slip off.
while the belt is off give everything a clean.
When its time to but the belt back on with outh the pulley in place you might want to have a visual marker to wher the tdc mark is, we did ths by using a mark in the oil pump housing and used a bit of tipp-ex to mark the point
next its time to put the belt back on, you need to put the belt on from the bottom and work round the water pump to take the slack, then on to the tensioner and on to the cams them back to the other idler pully, sometimes it slips straight on, sometimes its a right pain to get on, but it will go on.
to tension the belt, in the tensioner the is a square hole, a 1/4 short extension bar is a perfect fit, you need to pull this with the bar and ratchet in place to get the belt to tension, one it is tensioned up, lock off by doing up the 6mm allen bolt.
once all tensioned you should have a bit of slack in between the to 2 pulleys
and on the longest run you should be able to twist the belt through 90 degrees like so
turn the engine over by hand a few time just to make sure then i like to turn the engine over by the starter by removing the king lead then start it up, if the blet whines atall it is to tight and needs to be slackend off.
then just need to re-attach the bottom pulley and replace the pas and alternator belts.
thats it job jobbed
i would recomend the use of a spring balance to set the tension....
Isnt there a special tool you can use to get the tension spot on?
pah, all these fancy tools, do it by hand guestamating, like i did
Ok I ask cos Ive just done this job on my GTE but now its making whirring noise. So Ive slackened the belt so it will twist to 90 degrees but its still noisey?
did you change the tensioner aswell? was there any excess play in the tensioner or the water pump? if the belts too tight its normally quite a whiny noise
water pumps ok so its got to be either the guide pulley or the tensioner
get em changed then, you dont want to be changing bent valves!
theres a lot there
i'll ask dan 2help i think!!
thanks 4 all the help jamie and every body!!
replace the water pump and rollers 2?
any gen on how much...lee?
just ordered the bits to do the cambelt on the corsa today.
2 x Idle Rollers
1 x Belt Tensioner
1 x Belt
1 x Water Pump
£109.00 delivered from Autovaux.
Not bad at all really, since Vaux wanted £213 for just the parts!!
" He's A few tits short of an udder!! "