Are there any tips or trick to bleeding the brakes on a Cal /Cav turbo ??
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Thread: Are there any tips or trick to bleeding the brakes on a Cal /Cav turbo ??

  1. #1
    MIGWeb User
    Join Date
    Mar 2001
    The 1st Phase 4 Calibra

    Are there any tips or trick to bleeding the brakes on a Cal /Cav turbo ??

    Pretty much as above im hoping to bleed all 4 wheels and im lookin for general advice (bit of a nooby to this )
    Phase 4 nearly done Phase 5 here I come :)

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  3. #2
    MIGWeb User
    Join Date
    Jan 2001
    Northeast Kent
    Note: Hydraulic fluid is poisonous; wash off
    immediately and thoroughly in the case of skin
    contact and seek immediate medical advice if
    any fluid is swallowed or gets into the eyes.
    Certain types of hydraulic fluid are inflammable
    and may ignite when allowed into contact with
    hot components; when servicing any hydraulic
    system it is safest to assume that the fluid is
    inflammable and to take precautions against
    the risk of fire as though it is petrol that is being
    handled. Hydraulic fluid is also an effective
    paint stripper and will attack plastics; if any is
    spilt, it should be washed off immediately
    using large quantities of fresh water. Finally, as
    it is hygroscopic (it absorbs moisture from the
    air) - old fluid may be contaminated and unfit
    for further use. When topping-up or renewing
    the fluid, always use the recommended type
    and ensure that it comes from a freshly opened
    sealed container.


    1 The correct operation of any hydraulic
    system is only possible after removing all air
    from the components and circuit; this is
    achieved by bleeding the system.

    2 During the bleeding procedure, add only
    clean, unused hydraulic fluid of the
    recommended type; never re-use fluid that
    has already been bled from the system.
    Ensure that sufficient fluid is available before
    starting work.

    3 If there is any possibility of incorrect fluid
    being already in the system, the brake
    components and circuit must be flushed
    completely with uncontaminated, correct fluid
    and new seals should be fitted to the various

    4 If hydraulic fluid has been lost from the
    system, or air has entered, because of a leak
    ensure that the fault is cured before
    proceeding further.

    5 Park the vehicle on level ground, switch off
    the engine and select first or reverse gear,
    then chock the wheels and release the

    6 Check that all pipes and hoses are secure,
    unions tight and bleed screws closed. Clean
    any dirt from around the bleed screws.

    7 Unscrew the master cylinder reservoir cap
    and top the master cylinder reservoir up to the
    `MAX’ level line; refit the cap loosely and
    remember to maintain the fluid level at least
    above the `MIN’ level line throughout the
    procedure or there is a risk of further air
    entering the system.

    8 There are a number of one-man, do-ityourself
    brake bleeding kits currently available
    from motor accessory shops. It is
    recommended that one of these kits is used
    whenever possible as they greatly simplify the
    bleeding operation and also reduce the risk of
    expelled air and fluid being drawn back into
    the system. If such a kit is not available the
    basic (two-man) method must be used which
    is described in detail below.

    9 If a kit is to be used, prepare the vehicle as
    described previously and follow the kit
    manufacturer’s instructions as the procedure
    may vary slightly according to the type being
    used; generally they are as outlined below in
    the relevant sub-section.

    10 Whichever method is used, the same
    sequence must be followed (paragraphs 11
    and 12) to ensure that the removal of all air
    from the system.

    Bleeding sequence

    11 If the system has been only partially
    disconnected and suitable precautions were
    taken to minimise fluid loss, it should be
    necessary only to bleed that part of the
    system (ie. the primary or secondary circuit).

    12 If the complete system is to be bled, then
    it should be done in the following sequence.

    Non ABS models
    a) Left-hand rear brake.
    b) Right-hand front brake.
    c) Right-hand rear brake.
    d) Left-hand front brake.

    Models equipped with ABS
    a) Left-hand front brake.
    b) Right-hand front brake.
    c) Left-hand rear brake.
    d) Right-hand rear brake.

    Bleeding - basic (two-man)

    13 Collect a clean glass jar, a suitable length
    of plastic or rubber tubing which is a tight fit
    over the bleed screw and a ring spanner to fit
    the screw. The help of an assistant will also be

    14 Remove the dust cap from the first screw
    in the sequence. Fit the spanner and tube to
    the screw, place the other end of the tube in
    the jar and pour in sufficient fluid to cover the
    end of the tube.

    15 Ensure that the master cylinder reservoir
    fluid level is maintained at least above the
    `MIN’ level line throughout the procedure.

    16 Have the assistant fully depress the brake
    pedal several times to build up pressure, then
    maintain it on the final stroke.

    17 While pedal pressure is maintained,
    unscrew the bleed screw (approximately one
    turn) and allow the compressed fluid and air to
    flow into the jar. The assistant should maintain
    pedal pressure, following it down to the floor if
    necessary and should not release it until
    instructed to do so. When the flow stops,
    tighten the bleed screw again, release the pedal
    slowly and recheck the reservoir fluid level.

    18 Repeat the steps given in paragraphs 16
    and 17 until the fluid emerging from the bleed
    screw is free from air bubbles. If the master
    cylinder has been drained and refilled and air
    is being bled from the first screw in the
    sequence, allow approximately five seconds
    between cycles for the master cylinder
    passages to refill.

    19 When no more air bubbles appear, tighten
    the bleed screw securely, remove the tube
    and spanner and refit the dust cap. Do not
    overtighten the bleed screw.

    20 Repeat the procedure on the remaining
    screws in the sequence until all air is removed
    from the system and the brake pedal feels
    firm again.

    Bleeding - using a one-way valve

    21 As their name implies, these kits consist of
    a length of tubing with a one-way valve fitted
    to prevent expelled air and fluid being drawn
    back into the system; some kits include a
    translucent container which can be positioned
    so that the air bubbles can be more easily
    seen flowing from the end of the tube.

    22 The kit is connected to the bleed screw,
    which is then opened. The user returns to the
    driver’s seat and depresses the brake pedal
    with a smooth, steady stroke and slowly
    releases it; this is repeated until the expelled
    fluid is clear of air bubbles.

    23 Note that these kits simplify work so
    much that it is easy to forget the master
    cylinder reservoir fluid level; ensure that this is
    maintained at least above the `MIN’ level line
    at all times.

    Bleeding - using a pressure
    bleeding kit

    24 These kits are usually operated by the
    reservoir of pressurised air contained in the
    spare tyre, although note that it will probably
    be necessary to reduce the pressure to a
    lower limit than normal; refer to the
    instructions supplied with the kit.

    25 By connecting a pressurised, fluid-filled
    container to the master cylinder reservoir,
    bleeding can be carried out simply by opening
    each screw in turn (in the specified sequence)
    and allowing the fluid to flow out until no more
    air bubbles can be seen in the expelled fluid.

    26 This method has the advantage that the
    large reservoir of fluid provides an additional
    safeguard against air being drawn into the
    system during bleeding.

    27 Pressure bleeding is particularly effective
    when bleeding `difficult’ systems or when
    bleeding the complete system at the time of
    routine fluid renewal.
    All methods

    28 On completion, when firm pedal feel is
    restored, wash off any spilt fluid, tighten the
    bleed screws securely and refit the dust caps.

    29 Check the hydraulic fluid level and top-up
    if necessary (Chapter 1).

    30 Discard any hydraulic fluid that has been
    bled from the system; it will not be fit for re-use.

    31 Check the feel of the brake pedal. If it
    feels at all spongy, air must still be present in
    the system and further bleeding is required.
    Failure to bleed satisfactorily after a
    reasonable repetition of the bleeding
    procedure may be due to worn master
    cylinder seals.
    Last edited by DarrenH; 17-03-2003 at 10:39.

  4. #3
    MIGWeb User
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Its worth checking before starting that all the bleed nipples are going to undo without sheering off.

  5. #4
    MIGWeb User
    Join Date
    Mar 2001
    The 1st Phase 4 Calibra
    Thread Starter
    thanks that was just what I was after
    Phase 4 nearly done Phase 5 here I come :)

  6. #5
    MIGWeb User
    Join Date
    Dec 2001
    Mini 1000
    Dunno if it was in Odders hints 'n tips essay but.......

    Before you crack off any bleed screw, douse it in WD and give it a GENTLE tap with a hammer. It apparently reduces the risk of them shearing

  7. #6
    MIGWeb User
    Join Date
    Jan 2001
    Northeast Kent
    Originally posted by astraderv
    Dunno if it was in Odders hints 'n tips essay but...
    lifted directly from pdf haynes manual

  8. #7
    MIGWeb User
    Join Date
    Dec 2001
    Mini 1000
    pdf Haynes Manual??....... tell me more!!!!!!

  9. #8
    lee may
    If you have ABS you need to do it with the ignition on too

  10. #9
    MIGWeb User
    Join Date
    Jan 2001
    Cav turbo and XJR
    you will need to use a pressureised bleeding kit.

    Very difficult to get the air out without one (out the back system)

    otherwise you will waist lots of fluid

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