i didint understand why before either, but when a battery i had started dieing everyday, my dad said to top it up, which he did, and after a good charge, it worked prettmuch fine. its a good idea to keep em topped up IMO... Sadly neither my origonal battery, nor my Densil one can be topped up
what is the problem would be the correct question G
dunno, kicked it and left cos i had to get to work.
right. ok. it turns over and i can hear it firing in 2 cylinders weakly, but it cant fire up. the plugs are black and wet. theres a spark from the coil (so not crank sensor yeah?) but theres no spark at the plugs. the dizzy hall sensor isnt connected on the mbe so its not a faulty dizzy yeah? changed the rotor but its the same, gonna change the cap tomorrow when i pick one up.
but now it wont even turn over cos the starter has seized, sometimes it wont even grace me with a click after i have rocked it to try free the solenoid.
if you cant be arsed trying to understand that, the summary is fuel but no spark after the main coil lead. oh and the starter is goosed which dont help much.
do you have a spare set of relays for the MBE loom ?
If the sparks stopping at the dizzy its suggest leads or cap.
I know what you mean about the click click, no reply from teh starter. I'm sure theres something not quite right about the MBE setup, specifically that square plug near the starter motor, i.e the big red cable that used to plug in there for the bosch loom.
no, but fuel is going in and the pump is running. kicked them anyway, but it didnt help
leads i hope not, but cos theres no spark after the king lead they cant all have gone at the same time and it will be the cap.
pity the cap looks brand new
oh, thought it was my starter going as the last one went the same so i binned it. whats going on? i did the engine & wiring on this car in a day so dont remember what i did, whats the red wire and what square connector? mines got a round one now, i think they do the same job cos i remember the 8v was square.
mine hardly does that now. changed my timing map and the cranking exit is now at 600 revs. done it maybe twice this month.
that didnt bother me much anyway, the starter is now stuck solid which does kinda irritate me
well mine does it nearly everytime i start the car. I fear the starter motor is the weekest link. It probably doesnt like being turned backwards while under power.
that is the thread though garrie.
Originally posted by tomstickland When starting an engine its effective RPM is quite low, around 200RPM or so. If the ignition timing used at idle is set to around 25 degrees (which is about average for a mapped engine) the chances are that the piston will hit the ignited mixture while still on the compression stroke. This will have the effect of pushing the piston down against its normal rotation, effectively this is ‘knocking’ at cranking speeds. This is known as ‘kicking back’ and is normally characterised by the starter motor ‘straining’ and slowing right down, this makes the engine difficult to start and can easily destroy a starter motor in short order.
This is a common problem on engines equipped with mechanical ignition systems and more extreme cams since the engine needs plenty of ignition advance at idle to run properly. Unfortunately this extra advance can also cause ‘kick back’ and there is no way with a mechanical system to differentiate the timing between cranking and idle.
EMS based systems solve this problem by having a separate timing value for cranking/ start-up which is normally set to around 5-8 degrees. This is low enough to prevent kickback but is high enough to start the engine; the moment the engine fires the appropriate ignition setting from the base map is used.
thats exactly the problem, i dont have a laptop, gonna have to live with it for now.
****in cars eh. i have been thinking of getting a runabout with the misses. summat slow and comfy, been thinking about a cally turbo, but the bird likes corsas ffs women eh. cars and women, why do i bother lmao