Merry Xmas everyone!
Guess what I have just done.....go on guess....yep I got that bolt undone. I almost done a lap of honour in my shed when it came lose. I can now carry on with my project.
I would just like to say that the parts they show in EPC with the crank spigot bolt and the washers/spacers is wrong in that they show them a LOT smaller than they actualy are.
So how did I do it?
First was to wedge the engine stand as best as possible. Lock the crank up via the flywheel bolts on the flywheel end (of course the flywheel was remomed). Tigthen the engine stand fixture nuts up as hard as they go and then wedge an iron bar under the fixture to stop it spinning over. Then fit the breaker bar with E20 socket (1/2 bit) on the spigot bolt and then slide a long pipe over the breaker bar giving more purchase (see below)
Then I put all my weight on the breaker bar and just hung there for a long time. The engine stand wanted to tip but it couldn't due to the iron bar stopping it. so that started to break/crack the wooden floor of my shed
And then someting happend, something budged. I thought at first it was another flyweel bolt bending (as I've already bent one and stripped the thread on the crank as well). but no, it was the bolt....and it came undone
I didn't know that E20 torx bolt was so dam long. You can see in the picture where it was rusted on the face of the crank pulley wheel (white ring where the torx bolt head was rusted on). That small amount of rusted area coursed all this headache. The bolt came out with no problems and so did the crank pulley wheel too.
So now the bolts off I've removed the cam belt backing plate and oil pump. Plus removed the end caps and the crank itself (yes I did take note of the numbering and order of the end caps). I didn't realise how heavey the crank is!
So now with all that removed I can now carry on with the rebuild to do the following
1) check bores are ok
2) check that crank is ok and to ascertain wether to get it reground or not and order new bearing shells.
3) may get the crank balanced with the new lighten flywheel.
4) order recon/rebuild oil pump kit
5) order new end cap bolts and ARP bolts for pistons.
So some advice if anyone can not remove the same crank spoigot E20 torx bolt.
Now I've taken it off, it does seem you can completly ground the top head off the torx bolt. That will then allow you to slide the crank pully wheel off. then you have the rest of the bolt in the end of the crank. However, not all of it is threaded (only the bottom part) plus you'll still have some of the bolt poking out (becasue of the crank pully wheel is now off). So you can remove the rest of the torx bolt with a pipe wrench or some grips.