I've got problems with my Hall Sensor on my cav turbo. It's flagging code 94 Hall sensor high. I've tried changing the dizzy for a know working one but still it over fuels and will not run properly. The wiring to the Dizzy seems to be the correct voltage at 4.9V, but still it flags code 94. I've checked all wires through the loom above the injectors and they seem all OK. Any ideas anyone
Year I read it on a post in www.clubcalibra.com from a guy who bought one. apparently there are two types, it just depends on what the plug looks like, so its easy to know which one you want as they were fitted on other makes of car too.
Still no joy I'm affraid. I tried checking the pin outs on the ECU and am only get a 5 ohm readings on ech cable so I know I haven't got a wiring fault. I also checked every connection in the ECU plug to ensure I didn't have a short across onto another wire, and all connections were fine. I took the ECU out of my mates Calibra turbo and it still wouldn't run, but my ECU works fine in his car, so I know it's not ECU related.
Is there anything else that could cause the Hall sensor to flag up a fault.
It still shows code 94. The car misfires and sounds like the timings out when it's running. When driving the car the boost gauge is reading boost but it's not giving any boost. It drives like a 1.6L. Depressing
So to clear things up you, you got 4.9v at the HES connecotr (SKT) of the loom, ie what the ECU is also connected to.
So you must have had the engine on, had the DVM probes on the SKT and you saw a voltage on one of the pins.
Trouble is you want to know if the HES sensor (PLG) is also getitng that. The only way to do that is to break out the connections so you can monitor the 3 signals while the SKT and PLG are connected to gether. I don;t know if you can roll down the rubber boot on the back of the SKT or not and measure it from there.
What I'm saying is that the HES might be knacked anyway, the only way to test that is to replace the dizzy unit and thats a big job in its self.
I'm not running anywhere near standard. I have a phase 3 wallace chip set with custom built 10.6L intercooler, 4.5 bar fuel regulator, low compression pistons, Kevlar head gasket held together with a ARP stud kit, Courtenay high torque cams and a race spec transfer box. Just a couple of mods.
Have put a brand new set of bosch plugs in gapped corretly.
The plug leads were replaced with my last dizzy. Only done a couple of thousand miles.
It's hard to get started when cold and it sounds like it's on 3 cylinders but then as it gets warmer it seems to idle better on all 4, but when driving I have no boost through the whole rev range, but it's reading boost pressure on my gauge.
Where do you pickup your boostpressure-reading, at the ECU connection? You probably already checked every pressure tube/hose for leakages.
Even without the Hall sensor an XE/LET will run pretty decent, so before swapping everything, my approach would be:
Mechanical basics O.K.=> check camtiming and check compression.
Check fuelpressure, also check if it responds on (under-)pressure (I use a Syringe for this). Can your pump deliver the full 6 bar, and still have decent flow??
(just shortcut pump and apply pressure on regulator)
Blue temp sensor: must be around 2.5 KOhm cold and reduce to <500 Ohm when warming up (this is from memory, so don't fix me on this). Lambda sensor only starts changing things after warm-up, so forget this one now
If it idles already bad (3 cil.), just put a ign. lamp on each wire to see if you have sparks at the right place..... Right sparks, forget ignition and look somewhere else...
Only thing left is airmass meter, crank sensor in block and airtempsensor in plenum.... Or some wiring fault (bad mass connections)