High voltage to injector

[ad4m]

What causes high voltage to an injector tried searching the Internet but couldn't find much

[seabodSXI]

hi mate whad do you mean there should be two wires to the injectors one earth and one to feed the high voltage

[Paul]

hi mate whad do you mean there should be two wires to the injectors one earth and one to feed the high voltage

Feed the high voltage? Lost me there. How many volts do you think they need to open?

[Paul]

Anyway...

The ECU detected a fault in the injector or the wiring to the injector. It monitors the injector and when the injector is activated, the ECU expects to see the voltage pulled "low" or close to zero. When the injector is switched off, the ECU expects to see a voltage that is close to battery voltage or "high". If it doesn't see the expected voltage the ECU will flag this error. The ECU also monitors resitance in the circuit. If the resistance is excessively low or high it will set this code.

Try swapping the injector with another an see if the fault 'moves' with it.

[ad4m]

i shall try switching them around tommorow and see how i get on

[Paul]

P0201 the fault code?

[ad4m]

code 22 ive only flashed coded it

[ad4m]

It's code 27 injector 3 high voltage now I've switched the injectors around and still have number 3 also changed the engine loom and ecu

[Topbuzz]

make sure all the short earth leads off the c20let loom around that plastic case around the injectors are all tight down on the metal inlet body, make sure they are clean too

[ad4m]

wouldnt a bad earth bring up all 4 injectors?

[ad4m]

checked all the voltages going to the injectors and all the same did a ohms test all came back the same, checked voltage to the fuel pump relay getting 14.2 when running. checked all the earths but still got this high voltage the injector 3. my plugs are sotty black.
checked the idle control valves that all working fine
when i rev the car at a stand still to around 500rpm then take my foot off it comes back down and sometimes cuts out or has very lumpy idle i wonder wether my fuel pump is dying or my fuel filter is blocked.

if anyone is any good with c20let and fancys coming to have a look at this and tr and get it sorted i will pay you for your time and make you lots of tea/coffee lol need this on the road for work

[Topbuzz]

Got the diagnostic info off TIS about Trouble Code 27
TC27 info here
and testing Data F0:19 here

...but otherwise it does sound like the fuel injector is knackered/blocked - even though you have swapped them around inc the loom and ECU.

[ad4m]

ill try and check all this if not joy im putting it up for sale as ive had enough on it now

[ad4m]

Checked it all again today and still no joy did a compression test there all around 150

[ad4m]

Is there anyone who can help me lol don't want to break this

[Topbuzz]

How does the engine run? Does it start at all?
Have you disconnected the battery for a few minutes (ie clears all fault codes)?
When you swapped the 3rd injector with another one (which one did you swap it for?), did you reset the ECU then?
How many short black earth/GND leads have you got coming out of the fuel injector rail tube? They all need to be good earths/connection.
Where did you get this 2nd loom from?
Have you every had the car/engine working or has the fault just happened?

[ad4m]

Topbuzz yes it's starts but on idle it popping like to much fuel if you pick the revs up slightly it starts popping like backing firing. Also I had a code 73 come up today
The loom came off eBay from a running corsa turbo
I have 3 earths on my fuel rail and I swapped the second injector with the third injector
Also when ticking over if you rev it hard and take your foot off the car either cuts out or idles lumpy I've checked for air leaks and I've also checked the icv and that's fine

[Topbuzz]

See link to picture of the C20LET loom and pin-out of the ECU connector. 3 small earth leads sounds right.
C20xe loom conversion to be used for c20let

You also got to make sure that all 4 plugs 'snap' into the fuel injectors, hard to tell but with a mag light you should be able to see each clip in place, this is a common problem, need to really push down on the black plastic case so you can hear them 'click' into place.
Also with a multimeter you can buzz out the injector earths from the ECU connector (see link above) to chassis, this will tell you that each injector has its own earth in place. Plus you can see the condition of the pins in the ECU connector itself (ie make sure the pins have not been pushed back).

Code 73 = Air Flow Sensor (AFS) Low voltage
...Doesn't sound like you are having much luck with your car

[ad4m]

Theres only clips on 2 the other 2 have the plastic broken off so it won't hold the clip properly
Thanks for the info topbuzz I will do those checks and see what readings I get back and I'll let you no

[ad4m]

right guys its been a while and ive changed injector ecu and wiring loom and still no joy still getting code 27 anyone got any ideas if any other sensors could cause this

[Topbuzz]

what you need is a ECU diagnostic tool. something like op-com or opel-scanner. op-com won't work on C20LET
But the Chinese clone of opel-scanner does (based on 1st generation opel-scanner HW). These are difficult to get hold of, rare to see on eBay
But with this you can monitor all signals in real-time and can even plot 4 on a graph like a scope. You can monitor your injector timings, voltages, fuel pressure, boost pressure, temperatures etc. Hopefully this way you'll spot the odd one out and that's the fault.

Which reminds me, what is your fuel pressure regulator set at? Is it adjustable? It should be set to 3bar with the vac hose off.

[ad4m]

the engine is in a mk4 astra coupe and the diagnostic port isnt wired up as i have tried to wire it
and yes im sure my regulator is set to 3bar