After fitting the new oil cooler today, I've done probably 70-80 miles including a good hour long thrashing (ish) including a couple of runs up 0ddballs nans private road. After said runs I though I'd have a check on the cooler. Checking on it, I found it was obsolutly stone cold, so much so that I can only assume that no oil has flowed through it at all. Now would this be because there is some thernmostatically controled oil ways around the filter, thus if the oil didn't get hot enough it wouldn't need to open and flow through the cooler (ambient temps reasnobly low this evening). Alternativly have I got an air lock in it, in which case how do I get rid of it?
Also, maybe connected, I seem to be making lower oil pressure than before on the gauge. Before all recent probs I would rarely see the gauge (digi dash) go below full bars, except fully warm and idling at 900 rpm. Tonight I was cruising down in 5th and got constant 3 bars, flickering down to 2 at times. This worried me a bit, I intend to do an oil and filter change tomorrow as its crap oil in at the mo (though almost brand new).
I though about oil in rad, but as both pipes are below the cooler, as soon as you try to thread them through the front end, it would surely all leak out. Except thinking a bit more now, maybe there would be some way to retain it inside the pipes till the last minute (thinking gaffa tape and elastic bands )
Originally posted by 16vastra i wouldnt (and didnt) drive with oil pressure that low ESPECIALLY when you are not idling!!!!!!!
take the plate off and pop it in the oven to check the valve opens. or just try another plate
check also the pipes arent blocked
and you are meant to put some oil in the rad before you fit it
Right, I've taken the plate off and had in oven, relief valve does open somewhere above 100 degrees but no idea at what temp exactly, I'm no longer worries about this really, just think that its not getting hot enough in these now wintery times. As some people have said in other threads, its debatable whether its needed under normal condition anyway, this time I filled cooler and pipes with oil before re-assembly .
However, even after oil flush and change, still getting lower oil pressure than before head rebuild, this is worrying me ALOT! There was also a whisp of white on the underside of the filler cap, I'm not panicing too much but could it be the head needs re-tightening, would this explain low oil pressure. No signs in water but so little miles recently that maybe hasn't migrated this far yet?
you will probably find the white will go once you go on a longer journey, condensation makes that sort of white on the cap at this time of year
take the oil pressure spring out and the valve thing too, clean it all up, put a washer the same size as the hole ish behind the valve and reassemble to get higher oil pressure...it could be the flush has cleaned the innerds up so oil is flowing better (best guess)
and/or use thicker oil i run 10w60 and it only drops to 3 bars after a good spanking normally idle at 4 or 5 and always at 5 when driving
Originally posted by 16vastra oi read my reply bitch lmao
Right, help me locate the oil pressure relief valve? If its just a bit higher than the sandwhich plate but faces toward the back of the car then I'm scared, as I took this cap off, and there is nothing behind it. Inserting finger in hole, reveals a whol facing downward just less than 1/2 a finger length down this hole.
Right, spacered the spring but now can't get the cap on for love nor money. Feels like I've broken a finger pushing on it without joy Has anyone got a top tip for this, I feel like I'm so close yet so far away. The PAS is massivley in the way but please tell me you don't have to remove it.
0ddball, while I had the plate off, I tried blowing through the outlet to the cooler, I could blow through only a tiny fraction, nothing comparred to the unobsrtucted side. This surprised me, when I heated it in the oven it clearly opened so unobstructed, My only worry is that this may be happening after 105 degrees plus, or hotter than its suppossed to be anyway
I finally managed to fit the cap complete with a couple of mm thick washer, was a bugger though. I then put a new Vx oil filter on and filled with magnatec. After checking levels and taking it up to temperature no probs I took it out for a 15 min jaunt (thrash). Everything seemed fine until I came back to my village where by I popped into 5th to cruise through at 40mph ish. Until this point the gauge had not moved from full 5 bars, here it dropped to 3-4 bars flickering between the two on the digi dash.
Now as some may recall I’ve recently had a cambelt tensioner failure, subsequent rebuild, I then had an oil cooler pipe go dropping oil all over the road so have new (2nd hand) pipes and cooler. Can anybody help me diagnose this problem as its driving me round the bend. Only seems to be a prob when the engine gets fully up to temperature.
If the oil pressure has dropped to 3&4 bars at lower revs then its fine, mine drops to1 or 2 bars at idle but goes upto 5 again as soon as you accelerate, this has been the same on all my gte's so I assume its normal.
Dunno how similar these are bt I had to remove the PAS pump and bracket to get my valve out (2.0 8v Cav SRi) this I think also made the job of re-fitting MUCH much easier I also poppes a small washer in there too to try and regain some of my oil pressure and it worked, I now seem to be back at what I was some months ago at idle and I`ve picked a few more PSI up at higher revs
Hhhhmmmmmm, I'd been led to believe that you really wanted full 5 bars of pressure whenever driving. Anyone else car to add opinion to this??????
Removing PAS would have made getting cap back on much easier but would be a pain by itself wouldn't it? Or can you just wind the adjuster all the way off?
I'm currently trying to get the oil filter thread off a non cooler mount to try that as advised in another thread recently. Though they are only £3.63 plus VAT from vauxhall they can't ge me one straight away. I also wasted an hour in a Vauxhall only breakers this morning, considering they are "specialists" there is only 1 bloke out of 5 who has any idea what he's talking about.
Originally posted by super__dan Removing PAS would have made getting cap back on much easier but would be a pain by itself wouldn't it? Or can you just wind the adjuster all the way off?
its the pump bracket thats in the way. yes you can just wind the adjuster right off.
Originally posted by super__dan I finally managed to fit the cap complete with a couple of mm thick washer, was a bugger though. I then put a new Vx oil filter on and filled with magnatec. After checking levels and taking it up to temperature no probs I took it out for a 15 min jaunt (thrash). Everything seemed fine until I came back to my village where by I popped into 5th to cruise through at 40mph ish. Until this point the gauge had not moved from full 5 bars, here it dropped to 3-4 bars flickering between the two on the digi dash.
5th at 40mph is not far over idle, pressure drops to 3 bar lit at idle so this is normal.