should i fit this with or without sealent if a sealent is required then what should i use and is there a cerrtain sequence in which the bolts should be tightened.
is there any thing else i should know before attempting this job.
whats the success rate of sealing it 100% and should i use only a dealers gasket
I have recently changed the sump gasket on my car.Get a gasket for a 2.0l 8v,these gaskets ar made of rubber instead of cork,when tightening these gaskets up you do not have to wory about cracking the sump as much as you do with the cork ones with the studs in them.
The corky ones have metal studs in them when you are tightening them up it is very easy to over tighten the bolts and crack the sump(obviously because the cork will still thin out as you tighten the bolts but the metal studs have nowhere to go apart from through the sump its self),with the 2.0l 8v it is made of rubber(without metal studs)and it is almost impossible to over tighten the bolts.
i thought the 8 valve ones were all different all the dealers have black corky type, any one know how you are suppose to hold up the baffle plate with gasket in place and then bringing up sump and gasket without the baffle plate falling
use a moderate amount of RTV sealant and the gasket will cling to the block. the baffle will hang on its own cause it clips to the oil pickup pipe. then just bring the sump up with the other gasket sitting on it.
where exactly do i use this rtv sealent i have the black stuff i presume its good enough only concern is when squeezing gaskets it may fall into sump and block some oil way, i guess if that happens to much has been used.
i seem to have differing opinions where exactly does the sealent go is it all around baffle gasket as haynes and dealers say only on the edges and do i then also use sealent on the sump gasket and finally does sealent have to be applied on both sides of each gasket.