taking the head of my cavy tomorrow,,the gasket has not blown im checking the valves as i think there is a sticking one.
few questions if i may peeps
1,do i need to skim the head though its not over heated and the gasket hasn't gone
2.if valves are ok im going to remove and re-seat them,i know they have to go back in the same order,but does it matter if they go back rotated? (if you get what i mean )
3.is it ok to put new valve stem seals on older valves
4.in the haynes it states i need sealant for the cam block to head,,is there an alternative to the one from vauxhall or better?.part number it shows is90485251
5.is ok to have a few beers at the nightime after doing the job :beer:lmao
1. Nope just a good clean up and new gasket/bolts will suffice if you're just taking it off for valve seats, checking it's flat with a straight edge would be good practice.
2. No it doesn't matter if they are rotated.
3. Yep, check the valve stems for any scoring/damage first.
1. Nope just a good clean up and new gasket/bolts will suffice if you're just taking it off for valve seats, checking it's flat with a straight edge would be good practice.
2. No it doesn't matter if they are rotated.
3. Yep, check the valve stems for any scoring/damage first.
new seals are fine on the original valves, if stripped the head the valves need to be lapped in. a skim wouldnt hurt tbh(depends if catch face and mark it at all)
if need a hand or anything im only 5min from the end of the m56:beer:
new seals are fine on the original valves, if stripped the head the valves need to be lapped in. a skim wouldnt hurt tbh(depends if catch face and mark it at all)
if need a hand or anything im only 5min from the end of the m56:beer:
lmaolmao a whole week,well ill have to make up for it at the weekend,,got the sequence of undoing to hand and correct to re-tighten found them in the haynes (if that is correct)
halfords with do the lapping paste and sucker to do it, but also need a valve spring compressor too and also know what your looking for with a sticking valve:beer:
excellent ill pop to my local one tomorrow,ive got a valve spring compressor,,as for the valve im hoping my mate is going to take a look see if he can spot it/anything,,always good to have more info though to make sure he checked everythin
ok block removed and there seems to be no apparant damage to the head valves are 2 of them are carboned up and 2 are the nice sandy colour.
the next slight problem,,but this seems to of caused no problems to the car,there seems to be some pitting between 2 water outlets on the block,looks like its coroaded over the years,i dont really want to have to get the block skimmed,would it be ok to gasket it up,,and would i tiny smear of top grade gasket sealent be ok on it..ill take a photo of it and post shortly
its only the dark bit that is pitted,and seems to be between the 2 water exits,around the bore and the outer edge it flat and straight..its caused no problem before,but i notice the there is where on the one on the right back also
tough one to say without actually looking at it. main problem will be if the pitting is that bad it could cause headgasket failure if wears towards the fire rings.
any way of showing how deep the pitting is at all?
tough one to say without actually looking at it. main problem will be if the pitting is that bad it could cause headgasket failure if wears towards the fire rings.
any way of showing how deep the pitting is at all?
cheers for the reply phillip,ill get in shot in the morning mate,i would say its no more than 1/4 to less than 1/2 a mm pitted i put i straight edge on it you can feel it with your finger,,here is picture of that side of the head that goes over it,,you can see why these things do this it looks like it shares the water way above it.
Blimin hell!! how much lactic acid are in my shoulders/arms ive only done 4 valves..that is not easy work at all!!!
p.s got the block looked at im told it normal,,'should' be ok
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