xe rebuild - how to go about boreing

[joe joe]

yeh so i'm rebuilding my motor, its nearly strippped but i'm planning what i need to do to get it back upto a perfect running machine. someone suggested that i should go straight out to 88mm, but i've been reserching here and it seams like 87.5mm is best. the problem is i don't know how to go about it.

lets say i asked the engeneering shop to bore it out to 87mm, would that mean that i would order 87mm pistons? but if i did that wouldn't the piston scrape the bore directly?? so what size piston would i choose if i bored out to 87mm?

it is going to be a road going car and since i'm creating this thread i'll hit 3 birds with one stone.

I am wanting to get performance cams, which ones? i have the chance to change pistons(as in to get pocketed) at the same time so please guide me to a good set up but again for a road going car and std managment.

my last question is, is it worth getting bronze valve guides?
thanks all

[Agent Kellerman]

The standard cylinder bore is 86mm. The standard pistons are something like 85.94mm, giving you clearance.

An 87mm rebore should be fine, just ask for pistons and rings to suit that.

[joe joe]

thanks mate so all they need to know when ordering is the bore size n thats it, ok cool
what about bronze valve guides?? do they last longer than the iron ones?
and last, whats a good road going performance cams and the type of piston that would be suited to it
cheers

[Gordo]

Originally Posted by joe joe

thanks mate so all they need to know when ordering is the bore size n thats it, ok cool
what about bronze valve guides?? do they last longer than the iron ones?
and last, whats a good road going performance cams and the type of piston that would be suited to it
cheers

First, decide on the piston compression height/type you want to run - depending on the fuel in the area, a small dome will be beneficial for part and full throttle torque but may promote pinking/detonation.

Once you've received the pistons, take them along - with their scec' sheet which will have the bore clearance requires and they'll bore and hone it to size(s). Alternatively, FOR THE PISTONS YOU'RE USING(!), check with the maker/supplier on the actual bore size required for the correct clearance - the first is the correct way but the latter will do for a normal bore job.

You can go straight to 88mm but that means no more rebores - new/second hand block time for the next rebuild.

Bromnze valve guides (or thin wall liners) are gentler on the valves and wear less - they also transfer heat more efficiently from the valves, letting them run cooler.

There are a bunch of cam's around - be honest about what you want the car for - general road use, fast road, high speed driving, touring, etc. Be honest about the induction system and exhaust you WILL be using and the RPH/road speed you expect to be using. Then check out the options offered and the working range or call up their help desk for advice. If you're not sure, go for the lesser cam - which I would expect to be a hydraulic - if there is a kit or requirement for new springs, followers, etc - use them, it'll be cheaper in the long run. They should also be able to recommend a compression ratio/piston type.

[joe joe]

thanks for taking your time to reply. my aim is for sure road going, i want it to still run smooth but when i smash the thorttle i wont it to liven up jst like a normal xe but i want it to pull through the rpm harder and faster. Alot of my driving is under 100km/h but a few times i do go on the motor way. I want it to be able to take a fairly lowish grade fuel like 95ron.

Yeh i've definatly decided not to go 88mm, 87mm will do me fine.

I'm still kinda lost as to what brands and combo's work best. I know every motor should be built up to what i want to use it as but i dono how to go about doing it.
can you guys give me examples for the conditons i stated above.

like for e.g i should get 270 degree cams with omega pistons
except i want the parts i'm getting to be good quality and long lasting so i will work for any price.
cheers

[Skidmarkz]

Joe, as Gordo says, the first thing you do is sort out what you want to run and build your kit on paper and in your head the main thing is to be honest with suppliers!,

Buy your pistons first, when you get you bottom end rebored, take your pistons & spec sheet plus your bottom end and ask the machince shop to match each piston to its bore. I would aslo get the same machine shop to check your crank for tolorences if they are slightest bit out get it re ground and ask them to supply the new bearings its like £60 max for a re grind, if you miss this then it goes bang your looking at engine out and that costs alot more than £60!

where are you based mate ?

[joe joe]

thanks mate, doesn't the regrind take off that hard coating? i'm going to get it balanced anyways.
i'm in sydney
oh and my name is jack

[Gordo]

Originally Posted by joe joe

i'm in sydney
oh and my name is jack

That's OK, mate, you can't help that

Oh, were you the Aussie asking about gearboxes, a few days back?
I had a "discussion" today with a chap who tried to tell me the Cally redtop was a Daewoo engine that Lotus developed - he may simply have the wrong into but right engine - may be worth chasing up in the wreckers.
There was a car sold over here as the "Pontiac Le Mans" that used GM running gear - that may be another option if there were also sold over there as that.

[Skidmarkz]

Originally Posted by joe joe

thanks mate, doesn't the regrind take off that hard coating? i'm going to get it balanced anyways.
i'm in sydney
oh and my name is jack

it does yes and also makes 99% sure your crank is round and not oval!,

Aus! you can thelp that can you

[joe joe]

Originally Posted by Gordo

That's OK, mate, you can't help that

Oh, were you the Aussie asking about gearboxes, a few days back?
I had a "discussion" today with a chap who tried to tell me the Cally redtop was a Daewoo engine that Lotus developed - he may simply have the wrong into but right engine - may be worth chasing up in the wreckers.
There was a car sold over here as the "Pontiac Le Mans" that used GM running gear - that may be another option if there were also sold over there as that.

i'm not sure exactly what your saying sorry. but my car is also a calibra. unfortunatly here we call it holden calibra but i don't like that. i like saying opel calibra sounds so much er
nah that wasn't me, are you talking about aussie kid? yeh he recently joined up with out forum.

it does yes and also makes 99% sure your crank is round and not oval!,

Aus! you can thelp that can you
yeh mate it does cost more than you lucky bastards in da u.k but its soo worth it.

[Jack]

Originally Posted by joe joe

oh and my name is jack

You confusing bastard.

[CraigGreen]

Do a search on here for XE & cams. You will find that anything too lumpy will play havoc with the std SFi induction & ECU.
Keep the cam profiles sensible & the engine will remain tractable & torquey for road use. A decent Grp-N or similar chip will optimise the mid range performance & up the rev limiter a touch.

Higher comp pistons & valve pockets are individual Throttle Body territory which is somewhat more involved.

[joe joe]

Originally Posted by Jack

You confusing bastard.

ha ha ha yeh all thanks to you

[joe joe]

Originally Posted by CraigGreen

Do a search on here for XE & cams. You will find that anything too lumpy will play havoc with the std SFi induction & ECU.
Keep the cam profiles sensible & the engine will remain tractable & torquey for road use. A decent Grp-N or similar chip will optimise the mid range performance & up the rev limiter a touch.

Higher comp pistons & valve pockets are individual Throttle Body territory which is somewhat more involved.

yeh defo not gona spend for itb's, oh and guess wat i discovered today i have a 20xe.
i hope i don't have mahle, then it be a waste to get rid of infact i think i have pics of the bores jst to see wat ya think

[joe joe]