Fitting recon turbo help please !!!

[TOBYC]

ok ive got a new turbo coming from AET on tuesday.........

cost me £375 exchange... which i thought was pretty resonable...... ive got to get it changed before billing so.....a few questions for the experts........

do the bolts which hold the manifold come out easy or are they known for snapping??

is it best to undo them when its hot or cold ie when do they come out the easiest..........

is it a good idea to change the oil feed pipes etc and how much are they and where is the best place to get em from??


any info on fitting a recon/new turbo would be appreciated chaps..........cos ive never done one before.........but ive got to get to billing or i will be suicidal...........


help!

cheers
Toby

[yunis4z]

£375!! thats a bargain!!

best to liberally spray penetrating oil, ie halfords stuff or plas gas, leave it to soak for a few hours, then remove the heat shiled and remove using a 6 or 7 mm hex bit, you will need both a long type and a short type an extension and a uj...oh change the gasket while u are at it too, as well as the copper nuts.

with the oil pipe change the washers, or u may get a leak

[Richard Bell]

You Should always replace the oil feed pipe when fitting a new Turbo. Vauxhall are the best place to get them but they are about 60 quid !!! Remember to prime the turbo before starting the engine.

As for undoing the stud Nuts, I`v not had any problems with the ones I have done but you may find the Stud comes out instead of the nut undoing but its no major problem.

Richard

[TOBYC]

im getting the turbo and manifold and actuator and everything is set up............im not just getting the turbo.its all bolted together !!

so do i just have to fit new exhaust manifold gasket, oil feed pipe (the braided one yeah?) and prime the turbo with oil........??

apparantly the turbo manufacturers and AET recommend fully synthetic oil as this stops the turbo carboning up but ive been told previously to use semi as this stops the oil blowing past the turbo seals??? so what should i do............

just a bit nervous about doing it all correctly.........

[Laney]

I had to do this a few weeks ago. So long as you get the right size Hex bit you shouldn't have much of a problem. Its just the lack of space that can get annoying.

I didn't change the oil feed pipe or washers and guess what...... It leaks!!!!! I'll be getting them soon and refitting.

I also got new coolant hoses cos the originals were knackered (One split when i put it back on) There about £60 for the pair from Vauxhall.

When you remove the turbo you'll have to disconnect the sensor on the side of the elbow joint (assuming your removing the elbow joint) if this is the case I'ld recommend disconnecting the Plug end near the Brake Fluid resivoir (bad Spelling) as you don't want to risk damaging the sensor (not cheap!!!)

Oh and it might be worth labeling the hoses that go to it so you put them back on correctly.

Best thing is not to cut corners or costs cos the turbo is not something you want to neglect.

Hope that helps

Andrew

[TOBYC]

ok will do..............cheers............... ive just ordered a new oil feed pipe from vaux............ im gona get new oil filter new oil cooler pipe copper washers, new exhaust manifold gaskets so i hope thats all i will need................

now i still dont know wether to use vaux semi or fully synth oil???

what do you lot rekon i should use???

[Cemesis]

Semi 10W40. I was told that Fully would be too thin and blow past the turbo oil seals. May just be a vicious rumour but theres 10W40 in mine and it doesn't have any problems with it.

[Richie]

The oil feed pipe shouldnt need changed and looks like a right pig to do. The copper washers may need changed tho.


All I used was a 1/4 inch drive set with a 7mm hex bit, and a long and a short extension and thats all it took to take it off.

To put it on I used a 1/2 to 3/8 convertor and a 3/8 to 1/4 convertor as the torque wrench was only 1/2 inch.


Didnt need anything fancy really.

[TOBYC]

according to AET and the turbo manufacturers garret and kkk etc, they reccomend fully synthetic as it does not carbon up the rotors...........

thats what the chappy told at AET me this morning when i asked him the best way to look after my new turbo..........

Dunno what to do now........... ive got 12 months warranty on the new turbo so he aint gonna tel me something to damage it, so i might try the full and see what happens...........

main thing im worried about is will the manifold bolts come out ok and what the torque setting and sequence is when i put it back on..........any ideas matey??

[Richie]

Torque = around 20Nm

There aint no real tightening sequence but most ppl do it from the center out as this helps spread the new gasket out the way and stops any creases forming.

[TOBYC]

nice one cheers mate.............

everyones info much appreciated!

[Richie]

If you look on the Calibra 2000 Yahoo newsgroup there is a section of the workshop manual copied here about doing this very job.

[TOBYC]

calibra 2000........... do i just type that in to yahoo then ??

[TOBYC]

where do i find that article..........please ?

[Richie]

Sorry, was away on my dinner at work

http://www.yahoogroups.com/list/calibra2000

[TOBYC]

ahhhh mate............ I cant find it ??? sorry for being dumb......

[Richie]

You need to sign up to get access. Here is a copy of it tho - Turbo Removal

You really should join Calibra2000. The link above is just a small taster of what is there.

[JohnA]

Originally posted by TOBYC
...what do you lot rekon i should use???

New turbo: only fully synthetic, no messin' about.
If you use something like Mobil1, your seal will remain new (practically) forever. As long as you don't switch it off immediately after full boost, that is.

[TOBYC]

ive just bought vaux fully syth.......... will that be ok ???

[JohnA]

Yep

[bindegal]

In case you didn´t notice already -
the radiator fan (at least on my non-AC cally) is very easily removed, so take it out before messing about with the turbo.

In addition to the other parts above, remember to buy a new oil return hose now that your hands are getting dirty anyway. It´s rubber and becomes brittle at some time, probably because of the very hot oil coming out of the turbo.
The GM part number is 8 60 759 .

[TOBYC]

cheers guys............. turbo should hopefully be delivered tuesday........... then i gotta fit it before billing after work..........

is it best to warm up the engine to get the exhaust studs out do ya reckon?? or do they come out when the engine is cold better.

[Laney]

Don't think it matters to much. And remember if the engines warm so is the maifold which means Ouch ouch ouch!!!!!!

Space is more of a problem. If you can get the hex bit and socket in then undoing isn't a problem. The ones behind the compressor wheel are the hardest to reach.

[Richie]

Toby, spend £20 and get a good 1/4 inch socket set which includes a 7mm allen bit that fits on the socket and you will have NO problems getting to ANY studs.

C'mon, if I managed it with no screwups then anyone can. Took me about 4 hours but I was just faffing around more than anything else.

Oh yeah, when you lift the turbo up to undo the oxygen sensor elbow, put down sheets of newspaper on the slam panel to avoid scratching.... NEARLY got me... was pretty lucky

[Topbuzz]

ok ive got a new turbo coming from AET on tuesday.........
cost me £375 exchange

I know its an old post but who are AET and does anyone have a tel no, address or URL for a website??