Buying Oil, Some Basic Advice From Opie Oils
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    Buying Oil, Some Basic Advice From Opie Oils

    This post may seem like going back to basics but we are constantly surprised by the amount of people who do not know or understand what is written on a bottle of oil and therefore have no idea of what they are looking for, buying or using.

    This post should help as a basic guide, for more detailed information contact us and we will be happy to help.

    So, to be blunt about the subject, if a bottle of oil does not contain the following basic information then DO NOT buy it look for something that does!

    1) The purpose for which it is intended (i.e. Motor oil, Gear oil etc)

    2) The viscosity (i.e. 10w-40, 5w-30 etc for Motor oils and 80w-90, 75w-90 etc for Gear oils)

    3) The specifications that it meets (should contain both API and ACEA ratings)

    4) The OEM Approvals that it carries and the codes (i.e. MB229.3, VW504.00, FORD 913a/b, BMW LL04 etc)

    Ignore the marketing blurb on the label it is in many cases meaningless and we will explain later what statements you should treat with skepticism.

    So, what does the above information mean and why is it important?

    THE BASICS

    All oils are intended for an application and in general are not interchangeable. You would not for example put an Automatic Transmission Oil or a Gear Oil in your engine! It is important to know what the oils intended purpose is.

    VISCOSITY

    Most oils on the shelves today are “Multigrades”, which simply means that the oil falls into 2 viscosity grades (i.e. 10w-40 etc)

    Multigrades were first developed some 50 years ago to avoid the old routine of using a thin oil in winter and a thicker oil in the summer.

    In a 10w-40 for example the 10w bit (W = winter, not weight or watt or anything else for that matter) simply means that the oil must have a certain maximum viscosity/flow at low temperature.

    The lower the “W” number the better the oils cold temperature/cold start performance. I.E. 5w is better than 10w etc

    The 40 in a 10w-40 simply means that the oil must fall within certain viscosity limits at 100 degC. This is a fixed limit and all oils that end in 40 must achieve these limits.

    Once again the lower the number the thinner the oil, a 30 oil is thinner than a 40 oil at 100 degC etc. Your handbook will specify whether a 30, 40 or 50 etc is required.


    SPECIFICATIONS

    Specifications are important as these indicate the performance of an oil and whether it has met or passed the latest tests or whether the formulation is effectively obsolete or out of date.

    There are two specifications that you should look for on any oil bottle and these are API (American Petroleum Institute) and ACEA (Association des Constructeurs Europeens d’Automobiles) all good oils should contain both of these and an understanding of what they mean is important.

    API

    This is the more basic of the two specs as it is split (for passenger cars) into two catagories.

    S = Petrol and C = Diesel, most oils carry both petrol (S) and diesel (C) specifications.

    The following table shows how up to date the specifications the oil are:

    PETROL

    SG - Introduced 1989 has much more active dispersant to combat black sludge.

    SH - Introduced 1993 has same engine tests as SG, but includes phosphorus limit 0.12%, together with control of foam, volatility and shear stability.

    SJ - Introduced 1996 has the same engine tests as SG/SH, but phosphorus limit 0.10% together with variation on volatility limits

    SL - Introduced 2001, all new engine tests reflective of modern engine designs meeting current emissions standards

    SM - Introduced November 2004, improved oxidation resistance, deposit protection and wear protection, also better low temperature performance over the life of the oil compared to previous categories.

    Note:

    All specifications prior to SL are now obsolete and although suitable for some older vehicles are more than 10 years old and do not provide the same level of performance or protection as the more up to date SL and SM specifications.

    DIESEL

    CD - Introduced 1955, international standard for turbo diesel engine oils for many years, uses single cylinder test engine only

    CE - Introduced 1984, improved control of oil consumption, oil thickening, piston deposits and wear, uses additional multi cylinder test engines

    CF4 - Introduced 1990, further improvements in control of oil consumption and piston deposits, uses low emission test engine

    CF - Introduced 1994, modernised version of CD, reverts to single cylinder low emission test engine. Intended for certain indirect injection engines

    CF2 - Introduced 1994, defines effective control of cylinder deposits and ring face scuffing, intended for 2 stroke diesel engines

    CG4 - Introduced 1994, development of CF4 giving improved control of piston deposits, wear, oxidation stability and soot entrainment. Uses low sulphur diesel fuel in engine tests

    CH4 - Introduced 1998, development of CG4, giving further improvements in control of soot related wear and piston deposits, uses more comprehensive engine test program to include low and high sulphur fuels

    CI4 Introduced 2002, developed to meet 2004 emission standards, may be used where EGR ( exhaust gas recirculation ) systems are fitted and with fuel containing up to 0.5 % sulphur. May be used where API CD, CE, CF4, CG4 and CH4 oils are specified.

    Note:
    All specifications prior to CH4 are now obsolete and although suitable for some older vehicles are more than 10 years old and do not provide the same level of performance or protection as the more up to date CH4 & CI4 specifications.

    If you want a better more up to date oil specification then look for SL, SM, CH4, CI4

    ACEA

    This is the European equivalent of API (US) and is more specific in what the performance of the oil actually is. A = Petrol, B = Diesel and C = Catalyst compatible or low SAPS (Sulphated Ash, Phosphorus and Sulphur).

    Unlike API the ACEA specs are split into performance/application catagories as follows:

    A1 Fuel economy petrol
    A2 Standard performance level (now obsolete)
    A3 High performance and/or extended drain
    A4 Reserved for future use in certain direct injection engines
    A5 Combines A1 fuel economy with A3 performance

    B1 Fuel economy diesel
    B2 Standard performance level (now obsolete)
    B3 High performance and/or extended drain
    B4 For direct injection car diesel engines
    B5 Combines B1 fuel economy with B3/B4 performance

    C1-04 Petrol and Light duty Diesel engines, based on A5/B5-04 low SAPS, two way catalyst compatible.
    C2-04 Petrol and light duty Diesel engines, based on A5/B5-04 mid SAPS, two way catalyst compatible.
    C3-04 Petrol and light duty Diesel engines, based on A5/B5-04 mid SAPS, two way catalyst compatible, Higher performance levels due to higher HTHS.

    Note: SAPS = Sulphated Ash, Phosphorous and Sulphur.

    Put simply, A3/B3, A5/B5 and C3 oils are the better quality, stay in grade performance oils.

    APPROVALS

    Many oils mention various Car Manufacturers on the bottle, the most common in the UK being VW, MB, BMW, Ford or Vauxhall but do not be misled into thinking that you are buying top quality oil because of this.

    Oil Companies send their oils to OEM’s for approval however some older specs are easily achieved and can be done so with the cheapest of mineral oils. Newer specifications are always more up to date and better quality/performance than the older ones.

    Some of the older OEM specifications are listed here and depending on the performance level of your car are best ignored if you are looking for a quality high performance oil:

    VW – 500.00, 501.00 and 505.00

    Later specs like 503, 504, 506 and 507 are better performing more up to date oils

    MB – 229.1

    Later specs like 229.3 and 229.5 are better performing more up to date oils.

    BMW – LL98

    Later specs like LL01 and LL04 are better performing more up to date oils.


    FINALLY

    Above is the most accurate guidance we can give without going into too much depth however there is one final piece of advice regarding labelling.

    Certain statements are made on labels that are meaningless and just marketing hype, here are a few to avoid!

    Recommended for use where……………

    May be used where the following specifications apply……………

    Approved by………………………..(but with no qualification or specification)

    Recommended/Approved by (some famous person, these endorsements are paid for)

    Racing/Track formula (but with no supporting evidence)

    Also be wary of statements like “synthetic blend” if you are looking for a fully synthetic oil as this will merely be a semi-synthetic.

    Like everything in life, you get what you pay for. The cheaper the oil the cheaper the ingredients, lower the performance levels and older the specs it meets so beware!

    If you would like further advice then please feel free to ask here or contact us via our website or email.

    Simon & Guy
    Opie Oils
    e-mail:oilman@opieoils.co.uk
    tel:01209215164
    Migweb members get 10% Discount at Opieoils.co.uk

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  3. #2
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    Excellent info

    Sticky maybe?

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    Marked as an advertising feature perhaps?
    Veni,Vidi,Scubi

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    Do you know what gearbox oil the f20 takes ?

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    What car is the gearbox in?

    Cheers

    Guy.
    e-mail:oilman@opieoils.co.uk
    tel:01209215164
    Migweb members get 10% Discount at Opieoils.co.uk

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    What car is the gearbox in?

    Cheers

    Guy.
    e-mail:oilman@opieoils.co.uk
    tel:01209215164
    Migweb members get 10% Discount at Opieoils.co.uk

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    redtop engine in a mk3 astra

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    Guy, is the Castrol Edge SPORT 10w-60 a good choice for a C20LET?

    I was thinking it might be too thick once its hot, but what do you think?
    111 BHP@6,300 - 121 Ib-ft@2,500 - 3,200 from a 1400 SR with modified C14SE head, weber 32/34 on varijet inlet manifold, magnex 2" bore S/S exhaust system! Woohoo

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    buying oil, some basic advice

    oil man is right about these specs for oil, plus also there is thermal loading, stress loading, boil off temps of oil as well, and oil cools other parts of engine as well, it takes heat out of hot spots, shock loading, anti seize property s, esters these cling to the engine parts as well, sheer strength, tuned motors need a different type of oil, different oils give different mpg, some oils run cleaner in the engine than others, and some give more power,
    Last edited by fdrightup; 26-12-2007 at 21:11. Reason: missed a couple

  11. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by B8 GHY View Post
    Guy, is the Castrol Edge SPORT 10w-60 a good choice for a C20LET?

    I was thinking it might be too thick once its hot, but what do you think?
    Yep its a bit thick really, SAE50 is as thick as you would need to go.

    Cheers

    Guy.
    e-mail:oilman@opieoils.co.uk
    tel:01209215164
    Migweb members get 10% Discount at Opieoils.co.uk

  12. #11
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    Good post, we did a study on oils when I was in college (in engine design module) and it was concluded, that any good quality oil will suffice so long as it is replaced regularly.

    Semi synthetics are largely to be avoided (on a fiscal basis) as there is no guidline as to what constitutes a semi synthetic oil (as in ratio), and the word semi is misleading as people automatically define semi as meaning half, as in a half blend, but this isn't the case.

    Fully synthetic isn't required in most applications, and it's only worth bothering with in particualrly high spec engines with low tolerances that are going to be driven hard, as the oil will maintain it's viscosity longer and in higher extremes.

    So in essence, just choose a good quality (not brand) oil that suits the recommendations of the manufacturer, and there are plenty of factors oils that will do this.
    no links in sigs, booo www .coupe-club.org.uk take a look, you might like it.

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    I do autograss in a nova with a mildly tunned redtop xe. I have been using motul v300 15w50 I have noticed and a lot of people running the same engine using castol r castor based oil and some are using morris MLR castor stuff there equivalent i assume. They are both a 40w i think. People have been telling me this is the way to go and I was considering changing to this for next season what do you think

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    Thumbs up

    Hello Oilmen,

    is it possible to give a short list of standard advises for the most used engines?
    Like C20NE, C20XE and C20LET (in various tuning phases).

    I already emailed with you guys and got a top advise.

    Kind regards.

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    For standard engine recommendations for Vauxhalls you're best to use our oil recommendation tool on our website here:

    http://www.opieoils.co.uk/product-fi...&make=vauxhall

    For modded cars then either contact us via pm here or once again, use the form on our website for a bespoke recommendation (for tuned or tracked cars only).

    http://www.opieoils.co.uk/frmRecommendAnOil.aspx

    Cheers
    Guy
    e-mail:oilman@opieoils.co.uk
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    Migweb members get 10% Discount at Opieoils.co.uk

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    Greetings all, I just registered after stumbling onto this site. I've driven old bangers (don't read anything into that) all my life, but recently bought a Vauxhall Astravan Sportive 2litre DTI 53' plate through the network q scheme.

    I don't know anything about motor mechanics and have spent the past 2 days researching oils. I read the article on page 3 interviewing Oil Expert called John Rowland and did the Oil & Service Pack Recommendation on this site. It looks like a safe bet to go for the Silkolene Pro S 5w-40, but I was wondering what people thought about Castrol's latest EDGE TURBO DIESEL 0W-30 ? I've noticed a couple of people knocking Castrol's Magnatec - and obviously it was'nt recommended on your page.

    Any replies would be greatly appreciated. (At the moment its running on 10w-40 Vauxhall's own brand oil)...

  17. #16
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    The Edge and the Silkolene Pro oils are in a different league to GTX or Magnatec

    The Magnatec is a semi-synthetic, the Edge is a synthetic to road oil and the Silkolene Pro S is a top road & Race oil.

    Chalk and cheese really.

    Cheers
    e-mail:oilman@opieoils.co.uk
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  18. #17
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    Thanks for the reply. I was buying into the waffle about Shell's oil dispersing dirt deposits, and Castrol's oil bonding to the engine, but I think I'll go with the Silkolene brand.

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    Re: Buying Oil, Some Basic Advice From Opie Oils

    Hi Oilman
    What oil do you recomend for a Vauxhall C20XE 2.0l 16V that is modified to 230BHP. I.e has steel rods, Uprated shells, intruder pistons, uprated cams. Mainly road use but with 3-4 Trackdays a year.
    TIA

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    Re: Buying Oil, Some Basic Advice From Opie Oils

    Quote Originally Posted by pna12 View Post
    Hi Oilman
    What oil do you recomend for a Vauxhall C20XE 2.0l 16V that is modified to 230BHP. I.e has steel rods, Uprated shells, intruder pistons, uprated cams. Mainly road use but with 3-4 Trackdays a year.
    TIA
    Any idea on oil temps?

    Cheers

    Guy.
    e-mail:oilman@opieoils.co.uk
    tel:01209215164
    Migweb members get 10% Discount at Opieoils.co.uk

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    Re: Buying Oil, Some Basic Advice From Opie Oils

    i would like to know what oil would i use in the back transfare box on a calibra 4x4 with a f28 gear box many thanks for any HELP/....

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    Re: Buying Oil, Some Basic Advice From Opie Oils

    A good Dexron II ATF with regular change is ideal, if you want better then a synthetic ATF.

    Plenty to choose from here http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-442-atfs.aspx

    Cheers

    Guy.
    e-mail:oilman@opieoils.co.uk
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    Re: Buying Oil, Some Basic Advice From Opie Oils

    sorry is that just for the back box or can i use that on the front box as well so for the questions and many thanks for your reply

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    Re: Buying Oil, Some Basic Advice From Opie Oils

    My book doesnt say, it just says transfer box.

    Cheers

    Guy
    e-mail:oilman@opieoils.co.uk
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