whats the prefered method for this ? the old bike pump and pressure guage method ?
and what sort of boost/actuator pressure should i be aiming at, unregulated ? still running standard boost .8 overboost, .6 held. so maybe actuator set to 1 bar ?
Via amal/standard control you can only adjust up over so if you set actuator control at 1 bar it'll not pull down to .8/.6, it'll just hit boost cut(dependant on chipset).
iirc as standard under actuator alone they only run about 4 psi.
Unsure about the k16 actuator rod fixing but on good old garret numbers you normal set the preload so that the hole in the rod covers......cover 50%/goes half way over the locating peg then you pull/lever the rest over the locating peg and jobs a good un.
on second thoughts, actuator strength is preset. i.e the pressure at which the rod extends and cracks the wastegate open, and the max pressure to fully open the gate.
i think what i am asking is, how do you adjust the actuator pre-tension correctly.
Bypass the amal leaving it plugged in so it don't get a CEL and take a vac straight to the actuator. Drive car with eye on boost gauge, you're looking for 2/3 of target boost. Adjust until this is achieved.
I would consider investing in one of these, a mitivac :
You can use them to bleed calipers but its a chore. I prefer to use mine as a pump and set the actuator. Its a little more accurate and easier then a foot pump and you can use it as a boost gauge too.
IIRC KKK standard actuators should be simple 4lb actuators and rely on the amal valve to up / lower the boost.
Id ring courtenay and get one of their 10lb actuators (14lb if youve chipped it) and brackets. brand new shiny garrett item for less then a ton delivered!
True, but there are so many reports of ECU's and Amal valves causing erratic hold and peak figures, do you want them to look after it? If you set the actuator to a certain level, it will never go over that level so dont worry about the ECU bringing the boost down in this regard.
The real consideration is if the ECU sense a fault with the engine and wants to turn the boost down (limp home mode) it would need the valve in place and active to do this but Im guessing you know more then enough to know when something is not right and the loud pedal shouldnt be used until you get home to check it out.
so a 10lb actuator will just stay shut for a bit longer ? i.e will not creep until slightly higher boost. which will decrease turbo spool up significantly, but make the delivery less smooth ?
would i need less pre-load on this actuator, since its minimum capabale boost is the same as standard held boost pressure
If you have the actuator set to what your MBC is set to, when the MBC releases the pressures to the actuator, the actuator won't fly open, it'll go "Nnnngggggggggggggggghhhhh... I'm thinking about opening... I'm going to open real soon... Opening now, slowly" which isn't ideal.
2/3 is jsut what I aim for, it doesn't matter much as long as it's a) less than target and b) more than enough to keep it firmly closed when it wants to be closed.
If you have the actuator set to what your MBC is set to, when the MBC releases the pressures to the actuator, the actuator won't fly open, it'll go "Nnnngggggggggggggggghhhhh... I'm thinking about opening... I'm going to open real soon... Opening now, slowly" which isn't ideal.
the process in the second quote is over boost caused by spring stiffness in the actuator and siezied or sticky shaft in the wastegate.
If the two are working perfectly odders, an average actuator will create between 0.5 to 1 psi of over boost before settling down at the appropriate level of course too stiff a spring may make more. Point is, a slight touch of overboost from an actuator is normal, I wouldnt worry about anything over 1psi for about 1 second.
Eh? I know? Actuator spring rate won't make a difference if there's something in the way stopping boost reaching it, like a boost control solenoid? Actuator controlling boost is 1987 Renault territory.
so i'm best off with a standard actuator at the moment, because in your theory the actuator pressure has to be less than the target, for decent operation.
MBC will improve response though, i think i read the amal valve actually pulses the actuator to make the boost creep, for smooth boost application, rather than open or shut.
Almost there odders, set the actuator for what you want it to be. You MIGHT get 1 psi max over boost for MAYBE a second but nothing to worry about.
An MBC will act as a blind fold for your actuator preventing it from "seeing" boost until the MBC wants it to (also set the MBC at the same level as your actuator... might need to trial and error this, might be worth starting at Actuator = 10, MBC = 11 or similar. This is where the mitivac comes in handy).
Amal valve is pulsed by the ecu. Strength of the pulses determins how far the valve opens determining how much and when the Actuator "sees" boost.
yeah, but from what i've read it starts pulsing the actuator earlier than the target boost, to make the boost delivery more gradual. controlled creep if you like.
still dont like have an actuator the same strength as my target boost and the same strength as the MBC, whats the point ?
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