Isuzu turbo diesel tuning guide

[paul71]

After 5 years ownership I finally did this mod to my 95 cav White ring removed, screw turned just under 180°. I set the screw so I had no excessive black smoke while blipping the accelerator.

Inlet manifold has no over boost safety valve.

Had a problem with the one way valve that came with the bleed valve kit and it would only boost to just under 1 bar. Now I've sorted the one way valve I've had it well over 1.5 bar,lmao.

I've set it to 1.2 for the moment, so it hits 1.2 but drops off straight away is this normal or is it under fuelling? On a duel carriage way with the sun behind me the smoke looks totally normal, i.e not huge sooty clouds, just a grey mist emitting from the exhaust

I had trouble getting the pump lid off as the diaphragm was stuck to the lid so I think it may have moved position I marked the diaphragm to pump housing position but looking at the wear mark on the plunger it didn't line up with the needle point in the bore the plunger sits in. Can anyone confirm that the needle in the bore is at the 3 o'clock position while looking directly over the pump from the front of the car. All I'd have to do is reposition the plunger to this point using the wear mark

If I was to rotate the plunger in the bore does anyone know which way would up the fuel? I didn't have chance to look at its profile while I had it out.

The hardest part for me was removing the remnants of the old inlet gasket off the head and manifold. Didn't have any hassle removing the bolts

Any help appreciated. Thanks

[blownhemi]

Has anyone tried to mix 1.5 and 1.7 heads? More specifically, would an 1.7 head fit on an 1.5 block? Could the valve sizes or valve lift, or something else interfere?

My 1.5 head is gone. Machine shop pressure tested it, and it's cracked in the valve seat area somewhere, so I'll need a replacement, and 1.7's are much more plentiful than 1.5's around here.

[Hacula]

Has anyone tried to mix 1.5 and 1.7 heads? More specifically, would an 1.7 head fit on an 1.5 block? Could the valve sizes or valve lift, or something else interfere?

My 1.5 head is gone. Machine shop pressure tested it, and it's cracked in the valve seat area somewhere, so I'll need a replacement, and 1.7's are much more plentiful than 1.5's around here.

Won't fit, oil and water canals are different. But why not make use of the oppertunity and put a complete 1.7 in your car?

[blownhemi]

Won't fit, oil and water canals are different. But why not make use of the oppertunity and put a complete 1.7 in your car?

Thanks for the info!
It's my daily driver, and I use it quite a lot, so I'd like to keep it legal.

[Hacula]

Thanks for the info!
It's my daily driver, and I use it quite a lot, so I'd like to keep it legal.

It's practically impossible to see the difference from the looks of the engine. They look completely the same. Only a freak like us can see the difference, and still you'd have to know what to look for. Going from n/a to turbo is a different story

[Sosuzu]

Going from n/a to turbo is a different story

Is it a Hastle? What are the issues?
I have a Astra 17tds and my son drive a corsa 15td, both have upped the boost and fuel.
Last week my son overheated his engine, didn't notice loosing a lot of coolant and kept driving till the engine stopped :/
The engine still cranks but don't start no more. Maybe it's just the head gasket blown but I Guess the whole lump is ready for scrape. I can get hold of a 1.5 D in good condition and want to bold on all the turbo stuff. Is the fuel pump from the 1.7 turbo the same as the one on the 1.5 turbo?

[blownhemi]

It's practically impossible to see the difference from the looks of the engine. They look completely the same. Only a freak like us can see the difference, and still you'd have to know what to look for. Going from n/a to turbo is a different story

Unfortunately it's not the looks of the engine that matters, it's the serial number on the block. It is registered to my car, it's in the car's papers. Not that it happens very often, but if for any reason I'm stopped by the police, and they decide to look at the numbers, I could get into big trouble. For this same reason going from N/A to turbo on the same motor is actually safer from this point of view. The papers don't state the method of induction.
Believe me, when I started this whole thing, I've contemplated going the 1.7TD way vs the 1.5TD, too. Both had its pros/cons/risks. But I was looking more for reliability than breaking records, so I chose to rebuild my 1.5 N/A and turbo it instead of swapping in an 1.7TD with questionable history. They would have cost about the same, too, in the end.
(there's a de-turboed 1.7TD in there at the moment, but just for the time being...)

Is it a Hastle? What are the issues?
I have a Astra 17tds and my son drive a corsa 15td, both have upped the boost and fuel.
Last week my son overheated his engine, didn't notice loosing a lot of coolant and kept driving till the engine stopped :/
The engine still cranks but don't start no more. Maybe it's just the head gasket blown but I Guess the whole lump is ready for scrape. I can get hold of a 1.5 D in good condition and want to bold on all the turbo stuff. Is the fuel pump from the 1.7 turbo the same as the one on the 1.5 turbo?

They're different internally, same externally. It's stated somewhere in this topic, the 1.7 VE pump has larger pistons/plungers (don't remember the exact term). If I understand correctly, you're planning to install an 1.7TD VE pump onto the 1.5D+T. I doubt there would be any problems, just adjust the fuelling afterwards.
But the 1.5D I will lack some fitting for turboing, I presume. We did an 1.7TD to N/A conversion this December, and I remember there being more fittings on the 1.7TD, than on my 1.5D. Can't remember if it was oil or water, feed or return, pan or block, but there was some difference, some stuff we had to plug for N/A use. Probably nothing that can't be solved with some T-pieces and other fittings from a hydraulics shop, though.

[Sosuzu]

They're different internally, same externally. It's stated somewhere in this topic, the 1.7 VE pump has larger pistons/plungers (don't remember the exact term). If I understand correctly, you're planning to install an 1.7TD VE pump onto the 1.5D+T. I doubt there would be any problems, just adjust the fuelling afterwards.
But the 1.5D I will lack some fitting for turboing, I presume. We did an 1.7TD to N/A conversion this December, and I remember there being more fittings on the 1.7TD, than on my 1.5D. Can't remember if it was oil or water, feed or return, pan or block, but there was some difference, some stuff we had to plug for N/A use. Probably nothing that can't be solved with some T-pieces and other fittings from a hydraulics shop, though.

I found this on migweb and thougth chairing it:

Differences between the 1.7D & TD:
-2x turbo oil connections
-front water pipe (it's routed around the turbo, and has extra water connections for the turbo)
-thermostat housing (again extra connections for turbo and oilcooler)
-extra water connection for oilcooler (mounts to the back of the cyl.head)
-oilcooler
-pistons and rods (small end bearing is larger in the TD)
-fuel pump
-exhaust manifold & turbo
-oilpan (bigger, two-piece on the TD)
-dipstick pipe is angled away from the turbo
-inlet manifold (boost connections for the fuelpump, and no breather connection)

That is for the 1.7 but for the 1.5 will be similar probably and
besides of all the plumbing i think i better take no risk with bearing differences specialy when up boosting.
The block is as i was afraid of gone. 2 of 4 cyl. gripped, so i today found another donor car that will suply good td engine.

[blownhemi]

-pistons and rods (small end bearing is larger in the TD)

That, for one, is definitely not true. I've looked at three different bearing catalogs, and they all had the same bearings for all the Isuzus from 1.5D to 1.7TD. Or maybe it's a model year thing, just like the piston pin diameter. It's 22mm on the 1.5D, and 25mm on 1.5TD, BUT only up to a certain engine serial number, above which they are BOTH 25mm. (My late model 1.5D Corsa A has 25mm pins.)

[Sosuzu]

That, for one, is definitely not true. I've looked at three different bearing catalogs, and they all had the same bearings for all the Isuzus from 1.5D to 1.7TD. Or maybe it's a model year thing, just like the piston pin diameter. It's 22mm on the 1.5D, and 25mm on 1.5TD, BUT only up to a certain engine serial number, above which they are BOTH 25mm. (My late model 1.5D Corsa A has 25mm pins.)

That being the case it would not be that much of a risk to +T a normal Diesel if one wants to go trough the hastle of all the plumbing with oil and water pipes. I know some old Volvo's have also stronger internals on the turbo versions, but the non turbo's do +T without problem. The isuzu also have a reputation to be solid so if any risk, it may be not so big after all.

[Hacula]

The n/a versions also lack the oil nozzles that piss on the bottom of the piston (don't know the right name for it in english), and the compression ratio is different.

[blownhemi]

The n/a versions also lack the oil nozzles that piss on the bottom of the piston (don't know the right name for it in english), and the compression ratio is different.

Hmm... is that an 1.7 thing, or does the 1.5 turbo have oil sprayers/squirters/jets as well?

[Sosuzu]

I swapped the TD engine of the donor car. I drove the donor's last ride to my home and engine seemed ok, but now it is swaped it won't start. I just run about 2 seconds the stop solenoid on the pump switch off. I made a direct plus from batery but also then the solenoid click on and back off about 2 sec. later while the plus stay attached. The plug on the imobilizer (or whatever that thing on the pump may be) has 3 wires. One is live from ignition contact, other is ground, but what is the third? i get no readings on it. The car dont' have a anti theft key/ignition lock, neather had the donor. I tried switching the computer from the donor, no result. What am i missing, Any ideas?

[roperstun]

The box on the pump with 3 wires is an imobiliser, i had the same issues when i converted my old one. Just bash/cut it off and connect the wire thats the same colour as the one in you loom together then it will work.

[Sosuzu]

Found that the keys DID HAVE a chip after all, i switched the chip from the donorcarkey but still no result, got sick of it and trached the whole immobilizer like someone on page 23 here did. The immobilizer is a pain te reach, did manage to break it without removing the pump, but had to remove te intake manifold.
The car runs fine now, but i'm still wondering what parts have to be swapped to match in case of a new engine, just out of curriosity.

[Justas]

chip from key and imo block

[Sosuzu]

chip from key and imo block

Tried that, after it failed a few times before trying this. Maybe the whole thing was thereby reset to 'safty mode' somehow?

Might be an issue for all those who want to swap the engine like for example the 15 to 17td.

[Hacula]

Hmm... is that an 1.7 thing, or does the 1.5 turbo have oil sprayers/squirters/jets as well?

The 1.5 turbo also has them

[blownhemi]

I have a 1.5D flywheel, tigra's 200mm clutch and 1.7TD pressure plate

I have an 1.7TD pressure plate, but it's a flat topside, deep design, if you know what I mean. The mounting face is higher than the actual "pressure" part, the pressure part protrudes deep into the 1.7TD flywheel.

My 1.5D pressure plate, on the other hand, is a conventional one, with the pressure surface and the mounting surface roughly at the same height.

Was yours like that, too? Wasn't the 1.7TD's deep pressure plate too deep for the shallow 1.5D flywheel? Does your clutch pedal work and feel the same?

[Hacula]

I have an 1.7TD pressure plate, but it's a flat topside, deep design, if you know what I mean. The mounting face is higher than the actual "pressure" part, the pressure part protrudes deep into the 1.7TD flywheel.

My 1.5D pressure plate, on the other hand, is a conventional one, with the pressure surface and the mounting surface roughly at the same height.

Was yours like that, too? Wasn't the 1.7TD's deep pressure plate too deep for the shallow 1.5D flywheel? Does your clutch pedal work and feel the same?

Isuzu turbo diesel tuning guide

The pedal works and feels the same. At the moment it's a 1.5D flywheel, with a 1.7 TD pressure plate and clutch, since i have an F18 instead of the F13 i had back then.

[rochewright]

Just taken the white washer out of the fuel pump blanked the actuator pipe off and turned the fuel up a quarter of a turn and sorted some better induction out and what a difference it's made! Very impressed for mods that haven't cost me a thing apart from the boost gauge but that was only 30 quid!

[Hardcore]

Just taken the white washer out of the fuel pump blanked the actuator pipe off and turned the fuel up a quarter of a turn and sorted some better induction out and what a difference it's made! Very impressed for mods that haven't cost me a thing apart from the boost gauge but that was only 30 quid!

What boost are you hitting with the actuartor pipe off?

[gato__evolution]

Just taken the white washer out of the fuel pump blanked the actuator pipe off and turned the fuel up a quarter of a turn and sorted some better induction out and what a difference it's made! Very impressed for mods that haven't cost me a thing apart from the boost gauge but that was only 30 quid!

Open the LDA valve and turn the black crank wheel 2 complete "turns" clockwise, I assure you it will be a lot better when you step on the gas!

http://img238.imageshack.us/img238/1352/img196ht2.jpg

[blownhemi]

Calling all engine builders! (or people who have taken these things apart, and put them together...

The thrust washers (or thrust bearings, or wall bearings) I got for my engine are, like 4mm smaller in diameter, than the actual recess in the block... did anyone have a similar experience?


(I've cheked some catalogs, they list this same "small" size for the 1.5D/TD, 1.7D/TD. I can't make heads or tails of it. We've ordered a bigger thurst washer, for another engine, I hope it works out, but I'm still curious about this.)

The 1.5 turbo also has them

Did the 1.5D N/A's you have taken apart have the pads and holes in the block for fitting the oil squirters? Because my N/A has them, but not the squirters. Is there a check valve or something like that in N/A blocks, that keeps oil from flowing into the oil supply path of the squirters?

[blownhemi]

Did any of the Isuzu engined cars have the "equal length" (two-piece right side) driveshaft arrangement?