Isuzu turbo diesel tuning guide

[Muerte]

Yeap it sure is! You got ppl asking daaam what is that thing?
Anyone got any heat probs with corsa B and 1.7TD? I sure do every time i try to drive over 120km/h 60mp/h it start to heat up to 95 celsius and more if I drive faster.

[reno]

yep mine gets pretty hot so i keep a eye on the temp i dont let it over heat, also ive wired a switch in to turn the fan on myself, i have it running nearly all the time so it keeps cool when sprint driving lol

[nominous]

Actually almost have the opposite problem since the coolant is heating up the veg oil so the car runs quite cold.

Too main issues of what I've been reading on is sorting out the water temps and also the oil temps. Lots of the higher power guys going with plumbed in oil coolers rather than the stock water heat exchanger. Also bigger and better rads and lower temp theromstats.

Sachs do clutches for these engines with stock box. An organic unspring or a 4 puck unsprung. About 150 euros.

Definately some pump mods going on as a lot of talk of reving beyond 5K. But not sure yet if that's just uncalibrated rev counters in youtube vids or not. It's hard to get enough advance to get the revs up that high and still be making power.
Also a fair bit on box swapping for longer ratios.

[Balley77vauX]

My power drops at 5300 rpm

[Muerte]

Bosch certified repair shop did measure pollution from mine and yes the RPM is limited to 5000 according to that shops gear, note it's mechanical rev limiter on the pumps levers.
Where could i get bigger rad? I have no idea where to start looking as the stock rad fills up the space completely so how can you make it bigger.

[bd53]

Probs the wrong place for this but hey ho....

1.7 dti Astra 53 plt, Isuzu lump.....Cut out on me on way to work, restarted ok straight away then drove me 1 mile to work.....after work it will not start (apart from 3x 10second tries...then dies). This was yesterday.

Today I dropped a new fuel filter in the housing and managed to get the car home by regular top ups of diesel to the filter housing It doesn't seem to fill the filter housing with diesel (I presume the pump creates a vacuum which works its way back to the fuel tank??) The car runs fine for a mile or so when the filter housing is topped up...so what could it be??????????????

I am in Derby if anyone wants some beer tokens for fixing it....about ready to **** it off tbh, new gearbox, new turbo....now both lower engine mounts are ****ed and the intermittent wipers annoy the ****ing life outta me stopping in random places on the screen.

So come on then Vauxhall boys..help me figure out this fuelling issue and I wont go back to the good old fords

Tarr,
Dan

[Jack]

Probs the wrong place for this but hey ho....

Definitely, best starting a new thread.

Today I dropped a new fuel filter in the housing and managed to get the car home by regular top ups of diesel to the filter housing It doesn't seem to fill the filter housing with diesel (I presume the pump creates a vacuum which works its way back to the fuel tank??)

Yes, there is no in-tank pump, the lift pump is part of the high pressure pump, and draws diesel through the filter from the tank.

I am in Derby if anyone wants some beer tokens for fixing it....about ready to **** it off tbh, new gearbox, new turbo....now both lower engine mounts are ****ed and the intermittent wipers annoy the ****ing life outta me stopping in random places on the screen.

Any second hand cars come with issues. If you want hassle free motoring with a nice warranty, buy a new Kia.

So come on then Vauxhall boys..help me figure out this fuelling issue and I wont go back to the good old fords

My daily car is a Mondeo and that isn't without it's fair share of problems!

[reno]

right guys, starting to get some clutch slip at 20psi, car is on 143k anyway on orginal clutch, so has anyone replaced there clutch? and what did you go for? im going to pop down to a motor factors to price some up, looked on ebay and can get one for £65, theres a QH jobby for soming like £87 and there theres what claims to be a "sports" clutch for £99, but didnt see a brand. anyone recommend one? its a F18 box, im guessing i have to get a clutch for a 1.7TD isuzu as im guessing a petrol sport or gsi clutch is going to be different even though some of them was F18 boxs

[nominous]

Have had similar issues in the past when changing filters.
There is no sure way ever without seeing the car, but...
Fill your filter with derv, refit everything (tight!!) and crank it over till it starts. Then go for a fast idle about 2500rpm. You may well hear it drop the revs a couple of times as it works the air through but it's self priming so it'll cope.
You may have a blockage from the feed line coming from the tank. Best to blow back down that with a compressor and see if it imrpoves things, but despite thinking this a few times I'm yet to block the feed line even with veg.

I've had issues with it cutting out then needing a damn good crank which turned out to be a worn hose from the filter to the pump. No idea what the 53 plate filter looks like, but a common fault on the older ones is the syphon tube being over tightened and causing air leaks. Plus the motion of the engine causing the hose to fail in the banjo joint.




Back on topic.
Now having trouble getting into 1st but mostly 2nd gears. At least till I have a few miles on it and the box heats up. Stick is most likely worn. Flip the "leather" gaiter and there is a lot of shavings under it.
Luckily it's a diesel and 1st to 3rd is practical
Also have a starting problem. Think one of the 3 remaining plugs is down as the voltmeter built into the boost controler doesn't register a huge change when I switch them on.

Grabbed a NA manifold over the weekend from roper. Much better access than the stock one.
Will be fitting that soon hopefully. I have a spare IC from a Freelander in the garage from another project, so hopefully that will be a good front mount. It's big area but narrow so shouldn't give too much lag, so long as it clears the radiator !!

EDIT:
Clutches:
http://www.sachsperformance.com/EU/s...-tds/index.htm

Links from earlier mentioned (not me)
Smoke:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w_eIYZlbxK8
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WIcVttLFHe0
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fbrLom8tfBU
UK roads? dont think so lol

Mods:
http://translate.googleusercontent.c...f7706HfBd5j6ug

Box selection (someone please help me out with the codes in this, I need more research):
http://translate.googleusercontent.c...k58xq3xLRD21Nw

EDIT: Good site with box listing, In German so more google useage:
http://www.opel-infos.de/getriebe/f10_5.html

[bd53]

Thanks fellas

Going to investigate dry joints as a 1st port of call (tar Jack ) and then look at the fueling seperately......... I fear the cutting out is an ecu problem and the fueling problem is potentially the pipework to the filter or the filter housing itself...My engine mounts went just before this happened so should be a good place to start looking.

Thanks guys for the help .... now I'll bugger off your thread For now....till I need to tune it sometime soon.

Peace
Dan

[nominous]

Freelander IC clears the radiator. Like a glove!
Just pricing some boost piping up now. Not enough spares kicking around in the garage to get away with it.

Does anyone have a wiring diagram for the Mk3 AStra in a PDF or something?
I could do with knowing how a few things are connected in. Google doesn't return much.

[reno]

ask on MK3OC - Vauxhall Mk3 Astra Owners Club mate might throw something up probably be for a petrol though

[nominous]

Thanks for the link but still I cannot find what I need.

<rant>
For Hondas there are the OEM Honda workshop manuals available for download.
When I couldn't find the exact text I needed, I bought them from Honda and bloody well posted a PDF of the physical manual for all to use.

For a Vauxhall I cannot believe that the manuals are not available for easy download.
I'd expect google to find them PDQ.
So bloody frustrating.
Armed with a multimeter I'll just have to figure it out.
</rant>

I need to see how the headlight adjust switch is connected to the motor.
In a Honda it's generally a resistor in the switch (increasing resistance with the position) and the motor moves a corresponding amount.
Headlight motor control of the fuel adjust was discused and discounted previously, but I'm happy to risk it
Safe guards aint complicated to add to it either. Some feedback for safety.
Lot faster than doing a custom circuit with feedback for a stepper.


Stock Turbo, RHB4.
Compressor outlet:
OD: 36mm
ID: 29mm

Compressor inlet:
ID: 26mm
OD: erm I forget but bigger

Cast turbo elbow 2" hole, two bolt flange.
Stock DP something like 1.74" OD, so smaller ID.

Bring on the 2" or 2.5" DP

[Hacula]

Had a run on the dyno @ school yesterday:
122 hp and 260 nm with the wastegate actuator blocked off (it's been like that for about 6 months, no probs).

[Jack]

Had a run on the dyno @ school yesterday:
122 hp and 260 nm with the wastegate actuator blocked off (it's been like that for about 6 months, no probs).

AWESOME result, well done!

[cally t cal!!!!]

after ive sorted my belmont im going to buy an astra mk3 td to tune.

see what can be done

[cally t cal!!!!]

btw if anyone wants to know anything about tuning bosch pumps, im very knowlegable about the bosch ve pumps and various adjustments that could be done to the izusu, theres plenty you can do with the pumps, you can gain 4-6 psi from just pump tuning, then comes the exhaust, 2.5 no boxes, upping boost, fmic, water injection, etc

The bosch's are very easy to tune, on the top hat of the pump there should be a t30 and a 13mm lock nut ( it might be under a metal cap like landrovers, on a xud9t engine it isnt) you need to turn this anti clockwise 3 turns, Next, is to get to the max fuel which is a stud at the side of the pump with a 13mm lock nut and a warrenty seal, you need to remove the seal and undo the lock nut, turn the max fuel in 1 and a half to 2 turns.Then it starts getting a bit harder.

You need to take the top hat off the pump, inside the pump you will have a rubber diaphram which has the plunger attached, you can turn the plunger to determine when the fuel comes in on boost, i usually turn it 90 degrees or so for 22 psi of boost, Under the diaphram( if you lift it out) there is a white plastic clip, remove this too.

Refit the top hat, Right now you need to advance the pump slightly, around about 3-5 degrees, not much but it advances the fuel delivery and makes a huge difference imho. you also need to adjust the idle now, as the max fuel will make it rev higher, and i also adjust the max revs, i completely get rid of the max rev limit and make sure the throttle cable isnt slack and is nice and tort.

Then you can move onto boost etc!

Ive done the above to many 306's and zx volcanes which has made a huge difference, 1 of my zx's being only 18 psi with a t2 turbo(actuator not adjusted) just pump tuning and fmic and exhaust, was quicker than a friends audi a3 s-line dsg, i have 2 tuned zx volcanes at the momment im breaking, and a few bosch pumps inc one for spares im going to strip down, yesterday i sold a ko3 turbo'd bosch pumped 306 which i can say was v quick, all pump modifications above were done to that also, still had the top mount too!

i cant wait to get my hands on a izusu and see what i can do with that, at least on xud engines there are 4 variant's of turbo which the izusu doesnt have k14, k03, gt15 and t2, i also have a t2/t25 hybrid which was used on one of the zx's which was big spec!water injeection, piper custom cam, 2mm headgasket, 28 psi, oil cooler, tmic + fmic, etc etc... id say it was around 160bhp.Probably the most poower ive made from a td is 140 or so

thats just my 2p on the knowlege ive grasped myself about the bosch ve

[davidmckinney]

Rev beyond 6000rpm

[Hacula]

The bosch's are very easy to tune, on the top hat of the pump there should be a t30 and a 13mm lock nut ( it might be under a metal cap like landrovers, on a xud9t engine it isnt) you need to turn this anti clockwise 3 turns

What does this do?

and i also adjust the max revs, i completely get rid of the max rev limit and make sure the throttle cable isnt slack and is nice and tort.

How do you do that?

Do you have any experience with fitting a higher powered pump, like 170 bars instead of 140 like ours?

[cally t cal!!!!]

well ive looked, and the top of the pump on isuzu's hasnt even got the t30 and 13mm lock nut, which is ****, but maybe you can fit one from a 306, max revs is where the arm on the pump limits at, should be an m6 thread with a 10mm lock nut

[eggman]

it is possible to have these motors (well my 1.5td) to rev to 7250rpm and not expire as i still use my one in my boat to this day and its running 2.4 bar of boost when it was still a car(nova) it made 162 bhp with 291 nm on curlys rollers@6125 with a fuel mix of 50% red derv 25% hydrolic oil 15% petrol and 10% pro 4 (for pump lube) i would love to tell u it was nice to drive and didnt smoke but it would be lies as the large blower didnt come on boost till 4500 and it smoked like a pig on or off boost but it was stupid fast and i did most of the mods listed above apart from i advanced the pump 8 degrees so it didnt tail off so early and i also had a cable type knob (ooo errr) attached to my fuel screw so i could adjust it from in the car (it was turned so far at times it leaked a little fuel) any questions about it just ask i am sure i have pics of the build somewhere i defo have pics of the motor going in the boat


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[cally t cal!!!!]

^^^^ lmfao! legend! any more pics or spec?

[nominous]

well ive looked, and the top of the pump on isuzu's hasnt even got the t30 and 13mm lock nut, which is ****, but maybe you can fit one from a 306, max revs is where the arm on the pump limits at, should be an m6 thread with a 10mm lock nut

Our top hat is stamped steel. It has a dimple. You can achieve the same effect as your turning by hammering the dimple flat.
The 306 top hat fits on the isuzu. All lines up.
The 306 LDA pins are of a larger diameter.

Is the 306 a 10mm or 11mm pump?


Max revs is a screw which stops the throttle arm from moving. Look at the top of the pump and you'll see the arm hit a screw when you turn it towards full throttle. Undo the screw


162bhp is quite nice!
VNT definately the way forward.

[eggman]

i have 4 vnt`s for sale 2 large t4s and 2 small ones it was the large one with the nossle locked in a certain position that my 1.5 made 2.4bar and held it past 7000rpm i was very suprised it survived the abuse for so long i am digging out a old hard drive just now for the folder of pics hears a quick one of the blowers i am selling!!!


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[Balley77vauX]

Awesome Eggman...

Would love some more pictures, My 1.5td Made 104bhp and 132ftlbs of torque! With 2 turns of the max fuel screw and actuator disconneted running no I/C