Isuzu turbo diesel tuning guide

[duckruls]

Sorry it probably did not come across clearly, rich c is still on cavweb I believe but I think he has moved on from Isuzu 1.7 ownership.

Regarding the nitrous, I seem to remember Wizard of NOS selling a fuel enrichment device that fitted to the injection pump for diesels, last time I was looking into it they said they had stopped producing them and had no intention of making any more

Fridge - don't worry no secret info passing between myself and santaclaus, just having a chat about general car stuff, I believe in sharing info not keeping it to myself I have to admit for my sins that the write up and pictures on corsasport (diesel tuning) are from my first corsa when I tweaked it years ago, i've also documented my current corsa and my other project car on the web here at my site

[santaclaus]

Yeah ya totally right fridge , there defo seems to be a glass ceiling of 120- 125hp , it's the turbo that is the cause , and if we are ever gonna stake a claim to having as much space on this forum as the Gasser lads instead of one measly thread
we need to come up with an affordable and effective solution to the inefficient rhb4's we all have ,

As we all know that the 4's longevity drops like a stone beyond the 15psi range , not to mention its short comings in efficiency , not even other turbos of its day seem to give as much diminishing returns as these ! ,

as all they are good for to us in my opinion is just making hot air with such a narrow efficiency island that they appear to have , -- mostly returning little to nothing beyond its peak @ 10-15psi all the way to its almost counter productive ceiling around 25 psi , when uncorked

But if we can solve this , i can see no reason why our engines dont have the potential to be a genuine alternative to all the hoards of XE conversions out there , after all

With say 120 - 175 , reliable hp that they are capable of , we would be -

- more fuel efficient

- just as reliable

- easier to maintain

- far cheaper to do

- more torque

- less spanner work

- cheaper tax

- cheaper insurance

- ability to run on bio fuel , + vegi oil
lmao

heres an example along these lines ,( you may have seen it already, its been on youtube for a long time now ) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AV2D-xoRU-o

it makes 150hp ,+ 222lbs ft and does a 14.5 sec 1/4 mile - i have spoken to the Portuguese owner using the on line translator , bablefish , on a past occasion ,

and i could just about decipher from the reply , that it is using a garrett t3 , and by the way he was murdering it 36 psi with virtually no wastegate i would calculate that the t3 in question would be the babiest version of the family , the 40 trim , ( not nearly as big as you may think ) --- but still it gives you a good idea what can be done with only a mear questionable + marginal upgrade

sadly the owner hasnt replied to any further attempts to extract info from him using the translator , But Who knows may be i accidentally called his mother a hoe or something LOL lmao

If any of you guys are interested here is a quick diagram showing my turbo arrangement , - ( theres no secrets here ! )
http://i420.photobucket.com/albums/p...g?t=1229024016

there are no intercoolers , most of the pipe work has been double skinned in stainless steel , and am hoping to use squirts of co2 gas in between the chambers instead , activated by a variable rev counter shift light , along with lots of water injection

[RickGTE16V]

for fuel enrichment on a diesel, this is something i was considering...

take out the concentric shaft from the boost sensor in the top of the pump , and rotate it to a posistion so that required fueling (full boost - without nitrous) appears with the boost plunger depressed less , fit a bleed valve between the pressure line and injector pump so that the pump sees a percentage of the boost (adjust the bleed valve to get it right) and everything will operate as usual , then have a solonoid valve plumbed between your boost line and injector pump thus bypassing the bleed valve depressing the plunger further , and have your nitrous button also operate this soloniod - instant enrichment


or another thought i just had , adjust the concentric shaft to give the maximum possible fueling - fit 2 bleed valves and a solonoid valve , have the solonoid valve switchover between bleed valves , adjust one bleed valve for under boost fueling and one for boost + nitrous fueling , this should make it possible to have in car under boost & boost+ nitrous fuel enrichment adjustment

[santaclaus]

Classic , classy stuff , there mate , both certainly look like winners to me , funny i have my normal boost control set up like the 2nd one , 2 bleed valves between one actuator devided via an amal valve ( what ever term you use boost solenoid etc ) activated via , the shift light signal from my rev counter , giving me rev based 2 stage boost control in much the same fashion , , cheers for that , thats certainly opened my eyes in the methods that can be used , - i bet you wish you could patent this stuff lol

[Fridge]

Interesting idea rick, hand't thought about it like that. I was considering a roating solenoid fixed directly to the enrichment screw but the last few suppliers i contacted said their solenoids wouldn't be appropriate.
Wizard of NOS do a 'diesel enrichment device' for the bosche ve pump. They give no clues as to how it works but it's £180. I'm betting your system cost less than that santa?!?

I wouldn't mind putting a gt2259v variable vane turbo on. You can find them on saabs and vauxhalls so it be keeping within GM. Just need to find one where the turbine housing isn't cast into the manifold.

Also santa, about the 16 valve thing: The landrover 300tdi had a bosche manual direct injection pump on it (others may have as well but this is the only one i'v had any experience with). I think we could make it fit and then change the cam plates, etc?

I'm now off to my GF's work's christmas do. At least i have something interesting to think about while i'm there.
I'm just going to get smashed and talk about manual vane controlls and porting without loosing swirl and she's just going to get anoyed with me.

Just like last christmas........

[RickGTE16V]

fridge , if your intent on using the mixture screw you need a stepper motor and controller board that can move between preset posistions you need to get interested in electronics cant see that your gonna find anything off the shelf to do it and also you need to bear in mind there will be somewhat of a delay while the motor winds the screw out , in my eyes the on boost enrichment device is the one to tap into ..

[RickGTE16V]

HEY FRIDGE < I JUST HAD A BRAINWAVE - HEADLIGHT HEIGHT ADJUSTER! , they wind in and out the move between preset posistions!!! and have good strength, you need to get hold of one of these and the controller circuit and see how you can hook it up to the screw! they wind in and out but im sure you could tap directly off the gear that turns , but still is geared down , need to take one apart..

SCRAPYARD!!!

[santaclaus]

The worry with that is as far i can see , is not whether it will work or not , but more to the point , whether you would trust it , If the set up were to fail in any way , or it turned more than it should , you would end with massive runaway , there is no fail safe

great find with the land rover pump , fridge , got a feeling you will find that non electronic direct injection pumps are , fairly chunky inline pumps that are gear driven rather than the belt driven smaller rotary pumps , as in line direct inject non electronic has been around a long time in comercial use , as inlines tend to be ones capable of the pressures required ,
i hope im wrong but i defo intend to look into that along with ya though mate

[RickGTE16V]

very true , i dont think its the best way for enrichment only was trying to solve the problem of that particular way , i think best is what i said before , i dont know any other way to make this pumps add more fuel , unless something can be done with the cold start , but doesnt that also adjust the timing?

[Rich C]

The thing WON sell is a nice piece of machining. It fits in place of the max fuel screw and has a plunger down the middle. It uses gas pressure (usually from the nitrous) to force the plunger out, which is in effect screwing the fuel screw further in (more fuel). When the gas pressure drops (Nitrous switched off) the plunger moves back to its rest stop giving normal fuelling. Nice, simple and reliable Perhaps not cheap, but remember, someone has had to sit down, design it then make it on a lathe.
I did end up fitting a much bigger turbo to mine in the end and at 1.5 bar the results were pretty good. It's just a bit of a shame the car died around the engine. If anyone is interested I'll get some pictures posted of the big turbo/wastegate setup?
I never did get chance to get on the drag strip with the big turbo, but the best I managed with the standard turbo and nitrous was 15.26@93.5mph

Rich

[Jack]

Get some pictures up Rich, sounds very interesting.

Your car is what made me buy an Isuzu-engined car!

[DutchNovaDiesel]

@Rich, yes ! Pictures please

Cool , dutchnova , liking ya egt , mines digital too , you still got your web site mate ? , any new updates etc - i remember way back finding an old post of yours on fiat 124 forum about rhb5's ( they could of been more helpfull to your questions in my opinion ! ) you dont happen to remember the flange diemensions of the uno unit you had do you if you wouldnt find of course ?

Updates; well i'm currently going at it (my nova) with an angle grinder, welding equiment and some new plates, arches and so on !
I've almost got a complete chargecooling setup, need to source a radiator and some hoses and it's complete,
front suspension will be a bit upgraded: Corsa GSI tie bars (needs custom mounts), with plastic(HMPE) bushes.
I also changed the front gearbox mount and support to a stiffer setup.

I've still got a scrap RHB5 lying around, it's got a 75x75mm flange (vs the 65x65mm of the RHB4),
the exhaust inlet is also much bigger: 45mm vs 33mm on the RHB4. turbo's (RHB4, RHF4 & RHB5)
I've been reading a lot of stuff on the VW TDI & GTD forums, and a VNT turbo would be a nice upgrade / new toy.

[Jack]

I had a look around a TD Cavalier at the scrapyard a few weeks ago and noticed the pressure-relief valve in the manifold. I whipped the cover off mine when I got home and I don't have one at all! It's been cast that way too, it's not been bunged up or anything. Strange!

[RickGTE16V]

mine doesnt have a pressure release valve either thank goodness , cast like yours without one , some also have got an air heater cast into the inlet manifold too to make them smoother on a cold start but mine has neither

[KristofHA]

ok kristof , thats the easiest seal to replace without dismantling the pump so your lucky , i got mine from a specialist diesel place , cost about 20 quid , say you want a seal kit for bio diesel / veggie oil , i cant remember the name of the company i bought mine from but if i do ill let you know , as for replacing it its like an o ring , you will need to disconnect the injector pipes and then youll see 4 star head bolts holding the end of the pump on , now under that end are springs and lots of small moving parts so be afraid , very afraid , anyway loosen the star bolts but DO NOT TAKE THEM ALL THE WAY OUT , until you can just ease the end of the pump out by about 8 mm , then you will be able to see the o ring , just cut it with a stanley knife then pull it out from its grove , then to fit the new one , cover it in grease and stretch it over the back of the pump and take one bolt out , slip the o ring past it and refit the bolt , one at a time so you do not withdraw the pump head any more than 8 mm or so away from the body , if you pull it too far the peices inside will fall outof place and your in for a nightmare , then after the ring is past all the bolts , seat it into the groove and gently tighten the pump head back down , make sure it seats sqaure , do each bolt a few turns at a time cos if you get the head back on off sqaure you will break the plunger too ( ive done this also) , just be careful , slow and make sure everythings clean and youll be alright , put your pipes back on and woohaa leak fixed - now your a diesel mechanic

Hello RickGTE16V,

I'm at the point of replacing the seal. I took the engine out so i can better work on it and because i'm going to replace the F13 transmission with a F15. To be shure, is this the seal that leaks: ( remember, i drive on veggie oil, the yello stuf is the leaking fuel)
http://www.cardomain.com/member_page...jpg?432917-364

Fist i take the injector pipe loos. And then, where do i found the star head bolts:

http://www.cardomain.com/member_page...jpg?563017-364

thanks!

ps: do you remember the company where you bought the veggie seals?

[the flash]

Probably flogging a dead horse here but Alright!!
Playing with the idea of getting a 1.7d corsa and swapping to a td unit for a fiddle.
I'm thinking standard rs t3 turbo and cutting up an rs manifold and welding the mating surface onto the isuzu.
Is the standard engine up just plonking on a bigger turbo??
and the i.c. i think rs items are just a tad bigger than isuzu standard, anyone used a standard cossie alloy i.c. i think they have larger capicity.
Or the ultra rare frontera version ooo

[Fridge]

Probably flogging a dead horse here but Alright!!
Playing with the idea of getting a 1.7d corsa and swapping to a td unit for a fiddle.
I'm thinking standard rs t3 turbo and cutting up an rs manifold and welding the mating surface onto the isuzu.
Is the standard engine up just plonking on a bigger turbo??
and the i.c. i think rs items are just a tad bigger than isuzu standard, anyone used a standard cossie alloy i.c. i think they have larger capicity.
Or the ultra rare frontera version ooo

From everything else i'v heard on performance nova group and here you don't really need to plonk on a bigger turbo as the turbo that comes as standard can be wound up to 26psi. You could fit a bigger turbo but the lag would be greater. I think the internals would take it but iirc the heads start to go much over this pressure.

I'v got a sierra cossie ic for mine but i haven't offered it up to the front yet - to have a look to see if the inlet/outlet will clear the rad as they're at an angle. If i remember to do it tomorrow i'll let you know. Also, i don't think the corsa came with an ic as standard, it was just the cav and astra so it'd be a case of plumbing a new one in, not uprating the OE.

Most of the above is stuff i'v only been told and don't have first hand knowledge as i'v not got round to upping the boost on mine yet even though i now have all the gear! I personally recon that if you've got the stuff to hand, just give it a go mate and let us know how you get on!

[RickGTE16V]

ok christof , dont dissassemble the pump yet , it is not the rear seal that is leaking it seems that its the copper washer ( i think its a copper washer) that holds the timing plunger chamber . not sure what its proper name is . i have an old pump at home i will try to remove that part to find out what seal is there and if it is possible for you to replace it without upsetting the timing.

[KristofHA]

Thanks RickGTE16V!

But i already removed the "copper washer".
The only problem was to find the right tool to get it removed.
I damaged the "choke" when loosing the washer.

http://memimage.cardomain.com/ride_i...0032_large.jpg

i replaced the seal and put it back.
But now i heard that you always need to change the "copper washer" to, because there is a "cutting edge" on it...?
If thats true, i need to removed it again.

[RickGTE16V]

if the washer didnt cost that much then i would change it . or if its possible to gain access with the engine in i would leave it and see if it leaks. are you able to source a new cold start device?? i have an old pump in peices in my garage

[KristofHA]

I hope i can found a new one tomorrow.
than i replace it with a new one. it's almost inpossible to acces it with the engine in the car. I had to replace the transmission, therefor it's was easy to get the engine out and also replace the seal.

Thanks for your reply and looking at your old pump.

[duckruls]

Would the RHF4 that DutchNovaDiesel mentioned give a performance increase over the standard RHB4 ?

I appreciate that ball bearing turbos are more efficient but would it give a noticable improvement ?

[santaclaus]

maps for ihi's are as rare as rocking horse s@~t , the company never released any in the true sense - from the very minor data they have given away i believe it to be guesstimate of just 10 hp , give or take or so between the 2 - im sure that if the maps were avaliable it would just show that the rhf just has minor broader efficiency and spool rather than any true flow gains - the fact that it still has a very small compressor remains

im in the process of breaking down 2 isuzu 1.7s ready for rebuilds at the , and am experimenting with compression ratios on one ( pistons in the lathe as i speak ) to see how low i can go before i cant get enough cranking temps to start etc - the other i am collecting as much imperial data measurements from as poss , turbo included - and weights etc will post when i as soon i can if any ones interested , - a 1.5 isuzu will follow shortly after , to make comparo's in all areas , including exchangability etc

[duckruls]

I for one would be interested in hearing about the engine specs

I've been searching out turbo info over the xmas period to try and understand it all a bit better, I think the penny is starting to drop that flow is more important than boost pressure but i still don't fully get it.

I downloaded a program that matches a turbo to the engine spec (turbocalc) and it recommends a T3, compressor trim 45, HSG A/R 0.49 which it says could support 175bhp at 24psi, does that sound reasonable ?

Came across a couple of bits of into about the RHF turbo if there of any use:





IHI RHF4 VIBD Turbocharger Turbo / ISUZU 4EEI / OPEL Astra,Vectra 1.7L Diesel Engine
Compressor Housing
Inlet : 1.81" / Outlet: 1.45"

Compressor wheel:
Inducer / Major Dia.: 1.33" / 1.87" (33.8mm/47.5mm)
Application
ISUZU 4EEI Diesel engine

( OPEL Astra Vectra 1.7L )

Turbine wheel
Inducer / Exducer Dia.: 45.4 mm/ 35.1mm (1.79" / 1.38")

Cooling
Water and oil cooled system

[santaclaus]

from my measurements the RHB shows > compressor inducer = 34 mm exducer = 47 makes trim 52
turbine inducer = 45.32mm exducer = 35.54mm more accurate figures to come etc


closest turbo i can find that might prove usefull investigating is the KKK K03 ( as fitted to audi's etc ) - its pretty much the only cheap turbo i can find with a turbine inducer of 45mm - might lead to some wishfull thinking of hybridising them , using the rhb4 turbine housing so that we have no problem fitting to our stock manifold along with stock exhaust - lots of other specs yet to consider between the 2 to even make it realistic yet though ( like having the housing machined alittle to suit the slightly larger exducer the k03 has , but it would be worth following up as the compressor of the K03 supports 230-240 on a petrol , allowing a realistic 160hp range to us - But all pipe dreams at the Mo