If you check out SBD Motorsport's web site under catalogue 2001/carburettor kits :-
you'll see what I think they mean. From this kit I would imagine that it generates the spark and would be located on the end of the cam in the housing where the distributor should live.
As you can see this kit is ~500UKP (inc) or almost the same as I paid for the engine, so you can see my reluctance to part with the readdies ;-)
I got a distributor from an old cavalier at the scrappies (8 valve) but the centre shaft is too long to fit into the housing where the disributor sould go. It sticks out about half an inch and therefore obstructs the retaining bolts and prevents the distributor from engaging the cam. I can only assume the twin cam has a different fitting.
Can you tell me where the distributor came from for your 16V conversion?
I have also sent for an inlet manifold which appears to be the wrong one, even though I asked specifically for the 2.0L 16V that fits the twin 45's so I guess it will have to go back ;-)
Am I correct in assuming the conversion only requires the carbs and distributor assuming the relevant nuts/bolts/linkages/gaskets etc and bin the ECU/injectors?
From your photo it appears that you kept the injectors. Are you saying that you also use the old fashioned rotor arm/coil setup to generate the spark? If so what did you have to do the ECU so that it can co-exist?
yeah your right, i just wasnt thinking fourth dimensionally!
Surely thats the case with all injected cars, even my old mk2 cav had electronic ignition, so it looks like its gonna have to be the SBD secondary ecu which, for 500 knicker, is getting into throttle body territory on the money stakes.
I have been advised that a distributor from a 1.4 should do the trick or the orange capped version that may appear on the pre 91 cars. I also understand that there are small differencies in the coils, therefore I belive that the distributor and coil together will work. Any comments?
What is and where would I get a "dizzy" that you refer to?
Unfortunately I don't have an ECU since it was dammaged in the crash so appart from being driven down the carb route I have been told that the 45's will produce more raw power than injectors. AND I have also been told the opposite. Any idea which setup would produce the greater raw bhp, bearing in mind that it's not fuel economy I'm after?
I have done this on my mini with a 2.0litre 16 valve vauxhall engine and used a dizzy from a mk2 2.0 litre sri cavalier. the bolt holes are exactly the same although the dizzy is upside down from when it was in a cav but it makes no difference. I tried a nova 1.4 one but they use a u clamp to hold it in place but it will go in.
u also need the loom that goes from the dizzy to the amp. then itis just 3 wires. easy.
when it was rolling roaded I was told that the advance curve came in too quickly and was causing pinking at 3000 rpm so it has been retarded and possibly losing some bhp at top end.
Find an old style dizzy with bob weights and vacum advance, no electronics involved, and pretty rubbish. (I was told Manta would fit)
Find a newer Dizzy that only points the spark at the correct plug (ie standard early XE). You will then need a black box for timing!!! cheapest option is a webber alpha 2D which times off the crank sensor.
But I would say go 3D say MBE, but the Emerald Cams box can be supplied ignition only and at a later date you can upgrade the box to Fuel too.
Use your existing system with twin coil setup and wasted spark all of which you should have, with the same or similar black box from B.
Fuel injection has nowt to do with it, unless you want to go to throttle bodies at a later date.
BTW I thought Dellorto's and Webbers could use the same manifolds.
I used the original dizzy (early XE) and got a 2d ignition only box from webber alpha.
I later regretted this when I wanted 3d and fuel......
The dizzyless setup has to have a double coil because the engine only knows from the crank sensor where top dead centre is, but not which cylinder is on the firing stroke. So...you have a redudant spark.
maybe something to help clarify along the 'power' route..
Carbs are a big jump in power when compared to the standard manifold and single plenum - they are only a little worse v injection when the injection system is fuelling one choker per cylinder (ie throttle bodies) - which is pretty much carbs anyhoo, but just retaining the mappability of injection.
you should be good for about 180-185bhp once set up.
think carefully about whether you will want to upgrade in the future - as Elmo says stumping up for a 3d system now opens up many options for the future - but an old loom only dizzy would be the cheapest right now for sure.
I found a dissy from an "F" reg 1.8 cavalier that appears to do the trick. It has the adv/ret vacum, balance weights and is orange in colour with the relevant coil/wires to allow the ECU-less connection with electronic ignition, that is required to run with the 45's.
I have also found that the thrust bearing from an Opel Manta will fit the Getrag gearbox and have ordered a high performance clutch/pressure plate plate replacement.
After doing some simple calculations, to check that it will all fit, we should get time to shoe-horn it in this week :-0
If you like I'll keep you up-to-date with progress, just let me know.
Thanks for your help.
PS It might even be running by the end of the month ;-)
i put a 16v astra engine in a mk 1 astra gte.all i did was take the dissy from a 18 se engine(might have to mod base)along with its coil and ignition modual plus the bit of loom .Chucked on a set of twin 45 dellorto carbs on a QED inlet(top quality)added a facet red top fuel pump and fuel regulator.also recommended to put in heavy duty con-rod bolts.
you get a very torque'y engine and very nice sound from the 45's very drivible but they go out of tune after a while and drink the juice when you boot them.good luck jason