The other pipe like the water feed on the top of the turbo is a breather and comes from the back of the rocker cover (the bigger of the 2 pipes), this also has a T-piece valve in it that connects to the amal valve (cylindrical brass thing with electrical connection too).
A picture paints a thousand words:
1. Exhaust manifold with integrated turbine casing
2. Bypass manifold
3. Oxygen sensor
4. Oil return to engine block
5. Bearing housing
6. Pressure side of compressor housing
7. Compressor housing
8. Coolant feed from radiator
9. Air bypass valve
10. Oil feed
11. Coolant return to compensation tank
12. Intake side of compressor housing
13. Connection for engine ventilation
14. Control unit with actuating rod for charge pressure control valve
1. Brake servo
2. Tank vent valve
3. Charge pressure regulating valve control unit
4. Air by‑pass valve
5. Charge pressure control bypass valve 6. Hot start valve
7. Motronic M2.7 control unit
8. Active carbon canister ‑ tank vent
9. Throttle valve manifold
10. Fuel pressure regulator
11. Intake manifold
All of this stuff can be found on JohnA's website www.max-boost.co.uk, I would highly recommend giving it a read through as its rammed full of useful info
Nice one Savage that will come in handy when me and Miles put the head back on my car.
1) I recently found the pipe to the back of the amal valve was removed from the valve and blocked with a screw. Why would a previous owner do this?
2) Regarding the smaller cam cover breather running to the compressor, would there be any benefit in modding this? i.e put a catch tank on it like on the XE big breather. Surely preventing this oil blowby entering the turbo/intercooler/pipes and intake would be and advantage?
3) My car is currently billowing white smoke out the back. Taking off the head reveals no obvious signs of HG failure. So could we eliminate the coolant feed from the turbo temporarily to rule the turbo out? Obviously it would still be oil cooled, and the coolant feed would only be missing short term to troubleshoot.
1) When you say the back I'm assuming you mean the end with the single connection, if so then I'm not sure why they would do that unless they weren't using the amal valve and had another boost controller instead??
2) The smaller cam cover breather of the 2 runs to the inlet inlet manifold just after the throttle body; the larger runs the turbo. On a previous engine I cut the hose and had a filter on both ends and found no problem with it. The pipe vents gases from the rocker cover (and as you say can become contaminated with oil) so removing the suck (turbo) from one end may raise crank case pressure??
3) I don't know how the water routes through the turbo unit, i.e. whether it's likely water is making its way into compressor housing. JohnA would be able to share his opinion on running the KKK16 without the water feed. Are/were you loosing water at all?
1)yeah single connection...thats the one. Who knows i guess. I've connected it up as it should be now anyway.
2) Good point on the crankcase pressure. Fitting it in-line as suggested seems a good option.
3) Yes losing water, sweet coolant smell to the white smoke. We are talking big smoke signal goings on. Did a bit of a search, and running it without coolant feed seems ok in the short term. Just got to be careful with shutting down. Neil Adams ran his old unit for 25k without coolant apparently. So seems perfectly fine to do it for fault finding purposes.
As you say we dont know if the turbo is a plausible reason for the smoke. Regarding the turbo's design i dont know if its actually possible. One for John A perhaps?
Yes, you can run the K16 without the water feed, as long as the oil is a fresh good synthetic.
Under full boost it's lifespan will be somehow compromised, but it can still run for months if you're careful with oil changes and warmingup/cooling down procedures
I haven't heard of a turbocharger water jacket leaking, maybe because the core is very robust and a leaking jacket would be accompanied by serious damage everywhere else as well.
But you can bypass the water jacket for a test, just to see if it really is to blame.
i was just up at the engine and it seems that i have most parts jusy not the charge pressure control bypass valve? and hot atart valve(which you say is not nessessary).
any ideas where i can get this?
You will definately need the Amal valve and although you don't necessarily need to use the hot start valve you may need it to plug into the loom to prevent a fault code (not sure if bridging the wires would be ok instead?).