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Help please 2.0 16v Won't give a spark!

1K views 24 replies 10 participants last post by  Ken 
#1 · (Edited)
Hi, i need some help!
I have a MK2 Astra with a 2.0 16v XE in it, converted from 8v and now i can't get it to start! :( I have tracked it down to no power going into the Dizzy, it's had a new coil & pack, Dizzy, Rota arm, cap,
the plug on the side of the dizzy (with "+ 0 -" on it) doesn't give me any power at the + side with the ignition on, and the coil will not send a spark when turned over, but after the ignition has been left on a while (5mins) it will send loads of sparks to the ht lead, but i'm not turning the engine over! :confused:
and got shocked a few times wondering why this happened! could that be a build up of power in the coil, or just having a go at me !
I wonder if it's a break in the wiring loom, or the ecu!

Anyone got any ideas! or better still an inlet manifold for twin carbs! I just can't get my head round how this works.

Cheers.....................Ken
 
#3 ·
I got the car off my m8 and between us we got this far but just can't seem to get it to work!:(
I might try a 1.8 dizzy in it, with the coil only i need to know what power supply do i take to the dizzy and the + side of the coil,
is it 6v or 12v, as i've read it has a 6v constant supply changing to 12v for starting when the key is turned, only thing is it's push button start:rolleyes:
Is this right?
Cheeers...............Ken
 
#6 · (Edited)
i meant have you got the black wires from the loom going to the +12v? if any of them arent connected thats probably why your not sparking, the brown ones go to earth, and the reds are also for +12v. if you want to ditch the injection and run 40s i`m told you can use the ignition ecu, map sensor, octane plug and wiring from a mk3 1.6 carb cavvy. dont just use the early ignition module off a car with vacuum advance cos youll get loads of engine destroying detonation.:( i cant reember iv the valver has got a main relay or not? anyone else recall? that could cause probs.
 
#7 ·
I take it you are running the standard 16v engine wiring loom?

If so then providing you have a correct 16v coil and module then the engine wiring loom will connect to the module (4pin). You will then need to have a ignition live wire connected to the positive terminal on the coil.

This will then give you the ignition spark you need. This is a common problem when people install the 16v lump into other cars. Hopefully this should sort you out.
 
#18 ·
have you checked the fuel/ignition relay ? - it hangs off the loom near the suspension turret on that side - it supplies power to the fuel pump, and also in some way powers coil (I forget how) - they are a very common problem and can cause intermittent faults - I don't think it can cause what you're experiencing on it's own but if it is dodgy then it certainly won't help - it could explain the delay between no spark/spark.

have it off and test it - there are two normally open contacts - alternatively just bridge them to be sure.
 
#21 ·
Hi all,
Been in touch with a local breakers and he'll let have an ecu for £40 but got to check it's the same type!
Cheers................Ken
hopefully this will work or it's out with the injectors and in with carbs and old fashioned electronic ignition modules, i have all bits apart from the manifold for twin 45's, (any one got one)
 
#22 ·
ECU maybe

Dont know if this will help you but when I gave si_astra a hand fitting his engine in his 8v gte we never swapped the ECU and tried to get his car to start and had no joy (had the same symptoms as you) swapped the ECU for the one that came with the new engine and it started first time after that. Give the ECU a try m8 ???????????
 
#23 ·
Check You have all the lives and earths to the ECU, if they are all there check the connector for the ecu, I have had pins push out of the connector, causing all sorts of probs. If you think everything else has its live (i.e. injectors, crank sensor etc..) then check the wire from the coil (black + ) to its source for continuity, could be something simple like a broken wire in the loom, have you tried giving the coil a separate live feed?
 
#24 ·
cavvysri said:
i meant have you got the black wires from the loom going to the +12v? if any of them arent connected thats probably why your not sparking, the brown ones go to earth, and the reds are also for +12v. if you want to ditch the injection and run 40s i`m told you can use the ignition ecu, map sensor, octane plug and wiring from a mk3 1.6 carb cavvy. dont just use the early ignition module off a car with vacuum advance cos youll get loads of engine destroying detonation.:( i cant reember iv the valver has got a main relay or not? anyone else recall? that could cause probs.

I run 16v with twin 40's with mk1 8v dizzy, coil, and trigger box, only 2 (or three) wires to be connected, nice and simple.
 
#25 ·
Thanks for the info,
I didn't get a chance to get the ecu, so i'm going to get a twin carb inlet manifold, anyone know who does them for 40's or 45'
also where's the best place for a set of ARP big end bolts?
Cheers for all your advice over this matter,
I can't believe the re-sponse this site has generated,
A BIG THANK YOU TO YOU ALL
cheers...............Ken :D
 
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