Replacing Bathroom Floor - Days 1-7.

[MSG]

MSG. You want Dan to take your advice on something you are being sued for. tell me this isnt real.

You appear to have missed the whole point. ( I stated clearly that by using a soft rubber seal, I managed to stop the leak for good, and everything else I tried before did not seem to work, hence why I am being sued for the damage to the celing below due to the continued leak before, even after I had used all other methods to stop it, silicon did the job but only for a few months and then it started to leak again)

And I am not suggesting anyone take my advice, but just sharing my idea how I managed to stop that leak finally for good.

[MSG]

Your so full of ****. The reason it leaked is because you havent fitted it right. Plain and simple. Whilst you may be an expert with most things and I cannot argue, on this point i AM an expert as its what i do day in, day out.

To install the waste it goes

Chrome top
Silicone
bath
silicone
rubber washer
silicone
nut

make sure there is a nice bead all around each section

The trap is leaking because the o ring between the trap and waste is either twisted, torn or broken, or the trap is not tight enough.

going to this extent as above is both unneccessary and just a way to spam a thread with useless and unimportant crap.

You do baths on a daily bases, you said, but there is no Nut at the bottom, the whole thing relies on one centre screw to maintain enough pressure on the rubber seal. Bath sinks have a nut and not the tubs.

[jo4nny8]

I shouldnt have even bothered dignifying your ridiculous comment with an answer but i will just to shut you up


oh and you can get one here Water Waste Outlets & Accessories

when you decide to admit your talking ****, please come back and actually comit something decent to the thread instead of such trollop

[MSG]

I shouldnt have even bothered dignifying your ridiculous comment with an answer but i will just to shut you up


oh and you can get one here Water Waste Outlets & Accessories

when you decide to admit your talking ****, please come back and actually comit something decent to the thread instead of such trollop

Just goes to show you how much you really ****in know, that is a sink outlet and not a bath outlet, so much for your own trollop.

[neil105]

lmao ding ding round 1




ps the seal is under the bath

[Nemesis]

Good work Dan, fair play for DIY on such a daunting job. I would have probably been rinsed by a plumber for that.

Also lmao @ MSG plumbing lawsuit. Chin up matey, idiots will be idiots and not see your genius.

[wayne451]

God I must have been pissed last night, I don't remember posting on this thread!

I woke up with a minging hang over and thanks to MIG I now know that it is MSG witch hunt day, otherwise I wouldn't have had the foggiest! lmao

[Astra Dan]

Just goes to show you how much you really ****in know, that is a sink outlet and not a bath outlet, so much for your own trollop.

To be fair, the 9th and 10th products are bath drains with a big nut underneath.

[jo4nny8]

it was meant as a representative example and the web page showed the actual one

maybe i should have just used this one instead of hastily wanting to rub your nose in it



So. Now its seconds out round two, your turn squire!!!lmaolmaolmao

By the way Dan, are you not retiling it?

[MSG]

You moved your goal post, now you are showing a completly different picture that has an additional attachement to convert the sink trap for use as a bath trap. Since it has to have an additional bit fitted to it in the middle to allow for catching the overflow water. You did not show this picture before , then I would not have told you so that the picture you showed was for the sink outlet.

My comments were based on the all plastic shallow trap that does not use the above metal outlet with a nut, instead it has one centre screw to hold the whole thing together, this single screw cannot exert more force on the seal as opposed to the nut tupe trap. My comments were indeed correct as they were based on Jamied's Diagram which clearly showed the plastic shallow trap and that is the trap that had been leaking in my flat that caused damage to the ceiling below, and this is the trap that I had been talking about how difficult it is to make it a perfect leak free installation.

If you were using the sink outlet adapted for use on the bath, I can't see that leaking even if you did not use any sealants as the nut would tighten the gaskets/seals far more effectively as the force applied by the nut would be a lot greater than from a single screw in the middle.

[jamied]

So if i have read this all correct, depending on where your nuts are in the bath they may get trapped or not...hummmmmmm, im having a shower from now on.

[MSG]

So if i have read this all correct, depending on where your nuts are in the bath they may get trapped or not...hummmmmmm, im having a shower from now on.

lmaolmao

[jo4nny8]

You moved your goal post, now you are showing a completly different picture that has an additional attachement to convert the sink trap for use as a bath trap. Since it has to have an additional bit fitted to it in the middle to allow for catching the overflow water. You did not show this picture before , then I would not have told you so that the picture you showed was for the sink outlet.

My comments were based on the all plastic shallow trap that does not use the above metal outlet with a nut, instead it has one centre screw to hold the whole thing together, this single screw cannot exert more force on the seal as opposed to the nut tupe trap. My comments were indeed correct as they were based on Jamied's Diagram which clearly showed the plastic shallow trap and that is the trap that had been leaking in my flat that caused damage to the ceiling below, and this is the trap that I had been talking about how difficult it is to make it a perfect leak free installation.

If you were using the sink outlet adapted for use on the bath, I can't see that leaking even if you did not use any sealants as the nut would tighten the gaskets/seals far more effectively as the force applied by the nut would be a lot greater than from a single screw in the middle.

What???

I have not moved any goalpost whatsoever. You are just trying to confuse everyone with all the added crap around your rather useless comments

Dispense with all the faffle around the subject. The picture shows a std 1 1/2 bath waste connected to a std shallow bath trap. A basin waste is 1 1/4 and therefore without some massive fangled contraption (which im sure you have the patent for) you could never fit a sink waste in a bath as it would nearly fall through the relatively larger hole.

You also commented previously that bath wastes do not have nuts and only sink wastes do but in fact your wrong and i am quite happy that i have proved my point that you are full of ****.

And whether or not you use the type as i have suggested (from my rather vast experience and knowledge on this subject), or the type that you have suggested, the principle is still the same. They will both leak unless you use silicone on each face of the components.

[MSG]

Now give it a rest Johnny. I made my point quite clear regarding the all plastic shallow trap that uses the centre screw and it was you who brought this all steel outlet that uses a nut, if the original installation in that flat used was the all steel outlet in the first place then I doubt it would have leaked as much as it did,with the all plastic shallow trap with a single screw. Oh BTW I did not carry out the original installation, so if I had a choice I would go for the all metal version. Lets us not drag this thread into any further dispute. good luck to you in your trade.

Also I have now managed to fix the problem with a softer rubber seal, that required no sealants and it has now sealed perfect, no more leaks, so where is the problem now? the rubber material I used came out of a sheet of rubber I bought for making rocker cover gaskets a long time ago when I used to do loads of older cars where gaskets were difficult to get hold of. it is made of neoprane and so it won't crumble easily either.

[paddy>gsi/turbo]

dan nice work mate
youve inspired me to leave my bathroom as lol!

[Astra Dan]

I would like that type with the large outer nut, seems much more sensible then the single screw. Anyway, I've sussed the problem now. The new u-bend and the new drain had the same diameter tubing, meaning the o-ring didn't even get touched let alone compressed. My old drain with the new u-bend fits snugly, compresses the o-ring and doesn't leak.

Not re-tiling yet as the whole room would need re-plastering. The way we've set the bath up means it'll be dead easy to remove a year or so down the line if we choose to do it. The bath hides all the scruffy bits where the tiles end.

[Frisco]

Its good practice to use sealant on top (I use plumbers mait rather than silicone because it doesnt set) Id take it apart and put some on now even if its not leaking since its a 5 minute job. If it leaks later you probably wont know until it destroys the flooring the bathroom or ceiling underneath.

MSG you can get plastic bath gratings with either the screw through the middle or the 1 1/2 inch nut but that doesn't matter the fitting of them is pretty much exactly the same and sealant should be used

[vantastic007]

When I fitted the new float valve (bottom entry one - ooo-er missus) in my toilet I used blue hylomar (since I do more on cars than plumbing) after it kept leaking, that doesn't set either and the bog has not leaked since. So I gaining trust in the good old blue stuff I have used it in a few places to ensure a good seal.

One question though, I have not used it on any drinking water supply yet, but what should you use if you do, someone mentioned sanitary sealer is this special in some way?

Great work BTW. :-)

[Frisco]

SlicTite ptfe paste is good and ok for drinking water.

[Astra Dan]

Last update; this is how it stands now. Wickes bath panel fitted with screws, not their crappy velcro. Sealant strip round the bath will be fitted properly tomorrow. Not sure what to do about the raised section by the taps, but we'll improvise. New carput with underlay and gripper rods etc.

[couped]

Are you a plumber or registered gas safe engineer or has this project just been on a diy basis?.. please not to alarm you give me the boiler details, simply because it is illegal to remove the covering from a boiler unit unless you are a gas safe engineer, some boilers have case sealings which must be renewed prior to refitting, failing so and you could be at a high risk of the boiler leaking carbon minoxide.

Dnt panic as on inspection of your uploaded pic it seems you dnt have the worcester brand.

[couped]

If the boiler fails to fire up but goes through the sequence of fan-pump ect take one end of the rubber hose fromthe boiler side leaving the pressure switch end and give it a gentle blow,kinking the hose in your hand- if the boiler fires up, then its def the pressure switch thats away. or with the boiler electrics off, take the two rubber tubes from the pressure switch off and gently blow into the pressure switch- you should hear a clicking sound? if not pressure switch is faulty and sometimes if you do then the electrical contacts to this may not be switching thus not firing the boiler up.

Good luck and a good thread, if you need some advice pm me as i own my own plumbing heating electrical bathroom installation company.

[couped]

When I fitted the new float valve (bottom entry one - ooo-er missus) in my toilet I used blue hylomar (since I do more on cars than plumbing) after it kept leaking, that doesn't set either and the bog has not leaked since. So I gaining trust in the good old blue stuff I have used it in a few places to ensure a good seal.

One question though, I have not used it on any drinking water supply yet, but what should you use if you do, someone mentioned sanitary sealer is this special in some way?

Great work BTW. :-)

Depends what your trying to seal buddy, if its a union nut connected to drinking or bathing water then ptfe tape is all you should need, a silicone sealant would never be used for any type of drinking water fitting.

[couped]

MSG and JO4NNY8...... a bath trap is 1" 1/2 allowing for 1"1/2 waste pipe connections and fittings, a sink waste is 1"1/4. Two different sizes and in jonny8 defence the pic hes posted is that of acorrect 1"1/2 bath trap which you do get various types, and msg theres no way you can convert a 1"1/4 sink waste to fit a bath!.. dnt tell me your a plumber because your giving us honest worker in the game a bad name!

I fit at least 3 bathrooms a month and have only ever used in my 17yrs experience silicone on the steel parts when putting a trap together,the sealing washer is there for a reason, in the 8 years ive owned my own buisness ive never had a comeback or leak.

[Astra Dan]

Thanks coupe, but I've already fixed the boiler. A new pressure switch has sorted it. I reckon the diaphragm had perished on the old one, I could blow (gently) through both pipes with no clicking.
Purely DIY, this is my own house, boiler and bathroom.