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To be honest, I left school without being able spell properly, also lacking grammer skills. As you can tell I'm still not very good. I'm not even English.
I do try my best.
To be honest, I left school without being able spell properly, also lacking grammer skills. As you can tell I'm still not very good. I'm not even English.
I do try my best.
'power makes you faster down the straights, lightness makes you faster everywhere' mr c chapman.
Don't worry about it mate....luckily pedantic people like me will always be there to correct you lmao
It's bad enough going out with a teacher.
'power makes you faster down the straights, lightness makes you faster everywhere' mr c chapman.
Good choice.
I have owned my UK DC2 for 4 years now, still have no plans on changing it.
The cars do encourage you to drive better, they are very well balanced and you need to use the LSD to pull out of corners. Heal and toeing is a good skill, they have a small'ish fly wheel (think it's 7kg?) and the cars will lurch if you don't rev match above anything more than moderate braking.
They don't need much as standard, Big change is swapping the UK exhaust manifold to a JDM. Other advice is front H-brace, and rear upper brace. They are sensitive to correct tyres, I can't see what your running but you need tyres with stiff sidewalls else you'll miss the fun big time. The suspension was designed around a Bridgestone Potenza tyre, if you fit something soft like a Toyo T1S it will null the car, I run Hankook RS2's in 205/50/15 on mine.
Other advice is waxoyling, they rust inside the sills. You should strip interior side panels and check for any rust. You also want to waxoyl the rear arches, and under the car. Car is worth looking after, if kept clean it will keep most of it's money.
Other advice, have total respect for warm up times. Keep the engine revs well low when cold (aim for no more than 4k) and no vtec until fully heated up. However once the engine is fully warm they will rev for England! These VTec engines normally all burn oil eventually, and it's all down to how the owners treat the engines. Fully synthetic oil always and change around 5-6k.
Also need to change gear box fluid, only use the Honda MTF3, I change mine every 10k. Clutch fluid change is a must if not ever done.
Geo is also important and worth checking, trailing arm bushes can also go. Honda have a patented system with rear trailing arms. Basically if the rear steps out (goes lite) the geometry of the rear wheels changes (built into trailing arm bushes) and keeps the rear more stable. The ITR is a car that the limits can be explored pretty safely on a UK road and this makes the car fun
Last edited by JasonM; 12-11-2011 at 11:45.
Hi, cool. My list for the winter is to strip down the underneath and waxoyl it, I also need to do the lines, not sure if they're the brake or fuel pipes yet, I haven't checked. I've got a set of hardraces bushes on order, OE bushes for the gear linkage, K&N air box kit.
I fitted a rear brace today, and it's got RS2's on it at the moment.
I've given it a good service, and changed the engine oil twice since I've had it. Done the fuel filter. But I will do the gear oil when I do the linkage.
I always let my engines warm up before I give it some beans.
It's not as fast as my old Corsa, but my God it's just glued to the road, I love it every time I drive it.
'power makes you faster down the straights, lightness makes you faster everywhere' mr c chapman.
Re Waxoyling you need to remove the interior plastics to get at rear quarter panel. They rust inside here, once it's spotted on outside it's already to late. You also need to remove the rear arch lip rubber and spray with clear waxoyl then refit.
On the bushes I would of kept them OEM, especially OEM trailing arm bushes as these give the forgiveness I mentioned. I purchased my ITR on 28k miles (i'm now on 52k) and ran on the Potenza RE010 so experienced a 100% standard car before I started to modify.
The biggest thing for power is replacing the stock UK manifold with a JDM manifold. The UK has a 2.25" collector, where as JDM has a 2.5" collector. The 96 JDM manifold give more even gains and is a 4-2-1. The 98JDM is a 4-1 and is biased towards top end. 96 JDM is only manifold that will clear a H brace, so worth considering if your fitting one of these. The H brace helps balance the car after the rear tower brace is added, and of course helps turn-in.
Whats the K&N air box kit? The stock airbox is already pretty good, however the cars can benefit from breathing mods.
I only got the hardrace ones, becuse they work out cheaper than the Honda one, which I would of used if they weren't a rip off.
The bit in the rear arch hasn't got the gap, like most have, but yes I will be stripping it all down and making sure it lasts.
I'm gonna try and get the JDM system, and sports cat, at the start of next year. I got the filter for noise really. I've ordered this one.
eBay - The UK's Online Marketplace
Does any one do a brake hose kit, for the UKDM AND 98 spec set up, I can only find up to 98. So 4 stud ones.
'power makes you faster down the straights, lightness makes you faster everywhere' mr c chapman.
You can get goodridge hoses, there is a retailer over on itr-dc2.com that sells these.
Your correct the dirt into the rear quarter panel is from the gap in arch, if it's not there thats great, still wise to check inside panel however.
The sports cats give no more gain over the JDM cat (proven with RR) the sports cats are also failing MOTS. Your best bet is to fit the entire system from a JDM ITR, back box is compatible however. Also the JDM B-pipe section of exhaust is stainless steel, mine is from a 96 car. After 15 years has just minor surface rust only
There are better air-box's than the K&N kit you linked. If you want noise you can just run the stock air-box with the lid off, however it lets hot air in. This time of year probably not to bad however.
Best advice is register on Integra Type R Forum, lots of help and advice there.
Last edited by JasonM; 13-11-2011 at 19:06.
I've had it with the lid off the air box, but I doesn't run as well. Which why I went for that one, I plan to remove the resontor when I have the front bumper off, over the winter for the strip down.
I'm Mike_P over on itr-dc2.
Cheers.
'power makes you faster down the straights, lightness makes you faster everywhere' mr c chapman.
Mate had some work done at R motion, these are the people who setup some of the Honda Vtec challenge cars. They said the best breather mod was just to de-restrict the stock air box, and provide a better feed. I'm presuming that part is just removing the resonance box. Mates car ran well afterwards, but he had other stuff done also. Now you mention it I may removed the resonance box on mine.
Re ITR-DC2, see you on the other side!
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