i own a 96 calibra turbo which apart from the engine is pretty much stock, the engine has had a eds phase 3 kit and a few other bits and bobs, so that is pretty much sorted this wasn't done by me but by the previous owner and from the receipts its cost a fair bit.
Ill be the first to say im a newbie to the car world i had a citreon ax 1ltr for few months before buying this so its my first proper car and being 21 is a utter dream come true. It needs a few things done to it:
idle screw replaced or cleaned
tyres 2 if i want to stay in 2wd or 4 to go back to 4x4 mode had to pull fuse 19 because the box was making a clunking noise every so often and after a check i noticed the tyres were out by a fair bit.
I need to adjust the clutch
attach the center exhaust pipe properly.
After this i can start doing what i want which is where im hoping you guys/girls can help i would like some bigger brakes which ones fit ?? bigger rims lowering it etc........
please feel free to add all suggestions and if possible links or where i can get them ive attached a few pics of the cally below
Looks nice, wheels and lowering would be first step. But look into effects of lowering to the transfer box, you need to correct the camber to do it properly.
1) There is no idle screw, its called the 'idle control valve' that you need to clean.
2) If the box is clunking its proberly shagged anyway whether you fittted new tyres or not.
3) Is the clutch slipping? try replacing the cable. A clutch change is a real pain in the ass and expencive if you have a garage do it.
yep sorry meant idle valve the box isn't constantly clunking just when i have to keep stopping and starting, which is what screws up the damn idle valve the guy i bought this off used restictor pipe or something to control it but the problem with it is under heavy braking the revs can drop so low that it cuts out which isn't fun and ive had enough of that.
How would i know if the tx box is shot as i was hoping to get the new tyres sorted and use it again it was working fine (when i wasn't stopping/starting) then i noticed the rear tyre and pulled the fuse. The clutch is just really high compared to the brake and accelerator pedals im thinking this might be why 1st and 3rd gear sometimes make a lovely grinding sound. Although the first only does it when im rolling and i try to put it in if i do it when stationary its fine.
Not sure how to read the boost gauge mate its one of those tim ones goes from -2 to +2 i think im running on min boost (the little twisty knob is turned fully to the left)
Any help with any of this would be really apreciated
wicked thanks for that, But (there is always one isn't there lol) where is the icv on the cally turbo sorry guys im not clued up on everything yet and the haynes manual i have dosen't have the c20 let engine in it plus i dont have the calibra owner book :doh:
From what I have heard I would get rid of that boost controller, a high biting point would mean the clutch is worn down and therefore slipping so it wouldn't affect gear changes. If the gears are crunching I would be very worried about the state of the gearbox as it would suggest some synchromesh problems. A clunking TXB under braking normally would say that its sh4gged as well, sorryif I am sounding negative but if there are any problems you need to to know asap and if it was sold to you as being in good working order I would be asking for a refund, lets hope that I am over reacting and they're just niggling problems.
Im guessing by the smiley its a pig mucker of a a job bearing in mind i havent changed an air filter before is it advisory i attempt this will it take long or do i leave it to the lovely people at vauxhall
Im guessing by the smiley its a pig mucker of a a job bearing in mind i havent changed an air filter before is it advisory i attempt this will it take long or do i leave it to the lovely people at vauxhall
From what I have heard I would get rid of that boost controller, a high biting point would mean the clutch is worn down and therefore slipping so it wouldn't affect gear changes. If the gears are crunching I would be very worried about the state of the gearbox as it would suggest some synchromesh problems. A clunking TXB under braking normally would say that its sh4gged as well, sorryif I am sounding negative but if there are any problems you need to to know asap and if it was sold to you as being in good working order I would be asking for a refund, lets hope that I am over reacting and they're just niggling problems.
No problems with you being honest thats what i need,Regarding the tx box though no light comes up for it??? and the clunking isn't everytime i hit the brake again occasionaly but i pulled the fuse cause of this didn't want to kill it properly. To replace it ive heard it can cost up to a grand.It was a private sale as well so chances of getting my cash back are uber slim but tbh i love the car its just these little things that ruin it. Is it worth just keeping it 2wheel drive permantly then or get new tyres try it if i hear any sound remove it straight away??
The clutch according to the guy was replaced recently about 10k ago i was guessing he didn't fit it properly, as it seems to have plenty of bite.
1st gear is fine if the car is stationary but if its rolling (quite quick) and i try to put it in there is resistance and if i ignore that it goes crunch, 3rd just makes the sound occasionaly 1/6 times say am i looking at a rebuild what would that cost
No problems with you being honest thats what i need,Regarding the tx box though no light comes up for it??? and the clunking isn't everytime i hit the brake again occasionaly but i pulled the fuse cause of this didn't want to kill it properly. To replace it ive heard it can cost up to a grand.It was a private sale as well so chances of getting my cash back are uber slim but tbh i love the car its just these little things that ruin it. Is it worth just keeping it 2wheel drive permantly then or get new tyres try it if i hear any sound remove it straight away??
The clutch according to the guy was replaced recently about 10k ago i was guessing he didn't fit it properly, as it seems to have plenty of bite.
1st gear is fine if the car is stationary but if its rolling (quite quick) and i try to put it in there is resistance and if i ignore that it goes crunch, 3rd just makes the sound occasionaly 1/6 times say am i looking at a rebuild what would that cost
Prolly not worth rebuilding the box if its shot, a secondhand one will be cheaper although they are quite in demmand due to all the nova/corsa conversions going on. To tell you the truth mate it sounds bad but it hard to tell over the tinternet. I would put some posts in the mechanical and electrical section and ask peoples opinions.
Clunking could just be a knackered mount or a knackered driveshaft. As said, it probably isn't worth rebuilding the box. With that in mind, check (or get someone to check) the other possibilites and if it's definitely the box, then "drive it til it dies then replace it" could be a plan. It might last for 20,000 miles for all we know!
Your boost gauge is measuring Bar, which are just under 15PSI. PSI is normal on here, BAR on Jap cars generally
Standard is about 0.7 BAR overboost, dropping to 0.5 held. Phase 3 iirc is about 1BAR?
Aren't those twisty knob boost things normally a bad idea?? or is it just some of them?
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