how about on a rwd car? more weight you can get out of the front I guess and put in the back has to be better whilst cornering (the whole pendulum effect)?
wasn't thinking about the speed... and i didn't mean the voltage to the plugs...
they work by earthing on the engine, which then goes through the earth strap at the front of the car and to the battery... surely the resistance of the chassis will increase (as the battery will be grounded in the boot) making it harder for the spark.
also there must be more of a risk of interferance.
wasn't thinking about the speed... and i didn't mean the voltage to the plugs...
they work by earthing on the engine, which then goes through the earth strap at the front of the car and to the battery... surely the resistance of the chassis will increase (as the battery will be grounded in the boot) making it harder for the spark.
also there must be more of a risk of interferance.
Eh? Whether the earth is strapped in the boot or at the front makes no difference, earth is earth wherever is connected, same with welding, put the clamp at the back of the car to weld on the front and it won't make any difference.
The bodyshell is pretty much the same thickness all over 2mm - 5mm. Plus it covers a massive surface area, so the current will shoose the easiest route to do its job without heating anything up like with a wire.
In the simplest terms, the battery is only there to start the car. Once you're running, the important bit is the alternator and the earthing between the engine and chassis. Obviously there's upto 3-400A whilst your starting and the return path to the battery is important, but it's far less critical than the positive cable. I always mention 500A oxygen free welding cable as it's really flexible, got good thick insulation and the voltage drop along it's length isn't worth worring about. Imagine 50mm2 cable flattened down to 2mm thick. It's not as wide as your car, so the current carrying capacity of the metal in the car is massive compared to the cable.
well if you do the job properly the distance isn't any longer as ivedone it and as the loom was stripped it was just the right length to reach the battery
In the simplest terms, the battery is only there to start the car. Once you're running, the important bit is the alternator and the earthing between the engine and chassis. Obviously there's upto 3-400A whilst your starting and the return path to the battery is important, but it's far less critical than the positive cable. I always mention 500A oxygen free welding cable as it's really flexible, got good thick insulation and the voltage drop along it's length isn't worth worring about. Imagine 50mm2 cable flattened down to 2mm thick. It's not as wide as your car, so the current carrying capacity of the metal in the car is massive compared to the cable.
Agree, 500 amp welding wire is the way to go. That is what I am using and the car starts fine (though the starter is a bit slower on cold days). Once started no probs at all.
i used 300 amp on mine and its been fine, even when starting from cold there is no difference in cranking speeds.
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