Seam Sealer/Rust treated paint.

[mikegray]

When I finished welding up the floor pan on my mk2 cav, I painted it with rust treatment paint, then normal black paint on the top.

Now I have been welding the chassis on the back, I also painted that with the rust treatment paint. I left it to dry for a couple of days, then went to seam sealer around it before waxoiling/painting black. As I was applying the seam sealer it started to melt the paint, I was in an awful messlmao

Im just wondering would it be best to just treat it with rust paint, then black ontop? Or doing away with the rust treater and just seam sealering it and then black ontop? I will be filling up the chassis legs inside with waxoil. I might do the rest of the underneath aswell, as all the suspension etc if off so its a prime oppertunity i think.

Just wondered what you guys think? I though more would be better but I was wronglmao

The rust treament and black paint are Hamerite Products.

[novaboy_20]

what seam sealer are you using pu or the bushable one?

[Grim Reaper]

i was told to use something called Grey Stripe from halfrauds...its a rust proof primer thing which you can then go over with normal primer and then paint

[Gaz86]

let the rust treater dry before the underseal

[Greydj]

Ideally you must decide what you are going to use the car for (as a Mk2 Cavalier, particularily if it is a SRi or SRi130, its value is increasing as it is heading towards being a 'classic') and where you are going to keep it before you can analyze the risks it will face and hence the protection it needs. If for example it is a daily runner, and some still are, it will need different protection to a rarely used 'show' car.

You should decide if you want or need protection against for example stone chipping, salt attack, condensation and whether you want 'factory' body colour underseal under the arches so that you don't perhaps 'overdo' it. Also you should consider photographing your work to help its value in the future.

If you are planning to keep it for years are the products designed for and available on the 'high street' up to the job or should you be looking at the products (albeit more expensive) developed for the classic car market, where they really want their cars to last due to their value or difficulty on working on and spares? If that is the way you are thinking you need to check out Practical Classics and www.rust.co.uk and www.bilthamber.com Both these companies produce high tech primers designed to bond differently to 'normal' primer and the tins are unusually heavy. They also have rust killers and high solids waxes (Hammerite is a higher solvent product hence superficially cheaper per litre). Both companies products have done very well in the comparative tests run by the magazines over the years.

I only plan to do it once and to keep for 10+ years so my Mk2s are getting the best I get put into them. The extra cost is neither here or there compared to the other costs involved. I use Bilt Hamber products with Hammerite paint on top and BH wax on top of that on the outside and in the cavities (their aerosol is 750mm and with a long hose). On a Mk2 Cavalier do not forget that the front of the footwells are triple skinned (footwell/bulkhead/wheelarch) and need special care/holes and you can get into the chassis legs via the seat belt bolt holes and over the front of the rear wheel arches (this applies to Mk3s as well) via the hole of the top bolt holding the lock catch in place.

On a different note, if you have chemical reactions like that you have a bit of a problem as you don't know what it is doing to the underlying steel. I'd strip it back to the bare metal and start again, remembering that in rust treatment cleanliness is godliness with thinners, Meths and kitchen towel your friends. Also, bear in mind that the seam sealer is there for two main reasons, to stop water getting in and to keep the sheets of steel from touching each other. If neither of those conditions applies, if both the metal sheets are painted and the seam is protected on the outside, don't use it, just paint it.

[mikegray]

It's a brushable Seam Sealer that im using, I think the make is Granville but I will check.

Grim Reaper:- I will have a look at that

Gaz86:- The Rust treater was dry before I applied the seam sealer. Then after about 20-30 seconds after it being applied the paint turned to liquid again.

Greydj:- Thanks for the links I will be looking at those. I just want to try and make the car last as long as possible. I dont intend on selling it etc, and more than likely it will become the daily driver again. As for its value probably not alotlmao It is a SRI 130 Saloon but not standard. I would only get an agreed value with the insurance company to prove how much has been spent when its done.

I think I will clean it off and start again, and order any different products aswell. I'm thinking maybe just seam sealering around the rear chassis on bare metal, as I dont want water to get at that as they tend to rust quite badly at the spring seats and legs etc. I will take into account what you guys have said and read those links aswell before I redo anything.

[84-CAV-L]

Sorry to wake up an old thread, but I read with interest about the bulkhead/toeboard area on a MK2 Cavalier, I realise that it is a critical part of the cars' structure and it is a very rustprone area of the car, but what interested me was the wax injection part, I've just been doing this very job on my MK2, and I've stuck my wax probe in every hole I can find (factory ones of course!) to make sure I have liberally doused that entire area with wax to stop anything from going wrong, as my car is in the extremely unusual position of being totally original and never having been welded in that area, in fact the whole underside of my MK2 is largely original (one bit of serious rust around a drain hole in one of the pans which I welded a patch into,and that's it!) and rust free bar a few minor scabs which I have dealt with using POR 15 and put Dynax UB on top, however, I'm rambling, the bit I'm interested in is if I've missed anything? I've injected the chassis legs, the whole support structure around the control arms and the crossmember where the selector rod passes through, along with all the usual bits (sills, rear arches, chassis members either end of the sills,etc.) I even intend to wax inject the inside of the trailing arms, but maybe this is overkill! There seems to be a lot of box sections and enclosed bits underneath a MK2 Cavalier and I'm trying not to miss anything, so can anyone advise any other bits of the car that need to be injected?